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Those are called "Tube-O" fittings. I can only find them as hose ends. They appear to be normally used in automotive refrigerant applications.

New trucks sometimes come with a self-healing coating based on a thixotropic gelled calcium sulfonate formula. It's fairly inexpensive and availability in rattle can. https://www.daubertchemical.com/store/product-list/corrosion-prevention/nox-rust-x-121b It does not penetrate into joint seams...

If you buy a lift pump you MUST buy a Delphi HFP906. The others look similar but they don't have the right arm on them.

On the other hand, DOT 5 doesn't absorb water which is corrosive. There is no chance of protecting the system from any water if the fluid can't absorb it. M1008 caliper piston.

Anything military should still be DOT 5. There is no difference between components in a DOT 3 system and DOT 5, however I believe the combination of fluids can cause the rubber components to swell and fail. DOT 3 systems are more reliable. If it's been fully cleared out of old fluid and switched...

If you want to go the gear reduction route the 28MT starters can be found new OEM but they'll have a SAE #1 mounting flange. Aftermarket end housings are about $17 and will convert the starter to pad mount for GM engines. https://www.ebay.com/p/1536774077

I use these and they work fine. https://www.mcmaster.com/6084T3 You could probably find similar units for half that price.

Do yourself a favor and throw those valve cover gaskets in the garbage before you get too far along. They'll screw you over in 3 ways. First, they'll take a set and start leaking. Next, you can't retorque them because the double ended studs have brackets on them. Finally, they'll lose torque...

There are 3 options on the damper. The cheap aftermarket for $80. There is the Fluidampr for $500. Dayco has a midrange option for $300. I didn't like what I was seeing with the Chinese options. The Dayco premium is made in Australia.

The old ones work well. They have electrolytic capacitors so NOS might not work after sitting on a shelf for so long. An old one might be more of a gamble.

The CUCV glow plug system works very well. Make sure you use an isolated ground relay.

The front axle is rated to run with the hubs locked full time. If there are lots of highway miles, there is a needle bearing that supports the outer end of the axle shaft inside the spindle that gets hammered. This bearing rides directly on the axle shaft and requires replacement of the outer if...

Silicones are permeable and seep oil. The Loctite 518 would be best. Any anaerobic gasket maker is suitable here.

I don't believe the above will be true. A broken cage in a bearing is a big problem. This will strand you, it will require expensive recovery, and will cause extensive damage. It's probably a $25 bearing at this time.

If only one side of the cage is busted the spacers may still be between the bearings. As the cage breaks apart further all of the rollers bunch up on one side. This causes the shaft to go out of alignment and can break the gears or the transfer case housing if it occurs at speed. This can do...

If it's a piece of a bearing cage do not drive. Without the cage, the rollers will fall out of the bearing and the transfer case may be catastrophically damaged.

The brand of allen wrench matters. For L keys Bhondus and Wera are the best performers. Wera has a relieved design that is less likely to strip the screw.

Degreasers with caustic bases are best for prep prior to paint as they leave less residue.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-36463?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu-KiBhCsARIsAPztUF0Lp2wvalnliXSCuhHo0PYXJWaS3sKC8YlOhdXZpGWP-0qtdCY7JskaAph5EALw_wcB

Your front crankshaft pulley appears to have failed. These are rubber driven and have a ball bearing on them.