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Sucsess. Thanks for the help. Used a come-along. They each popped in the hole by themselves while working the come-along

First pic is rear dog bone at the connector between the tandems. Second pic is front dog bone at the same connector between the tandems.

I am in the middle of the job of replacing my torque rods . The drivers side lowers went on fine . The passenger side is a different story. I need about half inch of movement I think to get them installed. The old dog bones where almost completely worn out so I’m thinking I just have had...

Another day at work

This one has no internals. But I do have another motor that is 100% complete that I may do something with.

Awesome. Looks like it’s on a stand as well

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JqPRek-J8_w

Yes 1820 is exact. And when will you be in Ga? Which B17 is it ? I will take you up on that ride

Data plates back on. Hope to remove wheels and inspect brakes this week . Repack bearings and install 10 radials.

The push button switch may be your problem. I have had the same problem with 2 trucks and it was the switch.

Service the truck including the brakes and drive it.

Very nice. Would love to have one.

Those starter buttons are kind of finicky at times as well. You might try a jumper wire to exclude it.

a guy local to me did the exact same upgrade just a few years ago.

It was a fun project. Thanks for looking. I have another 100% complete r985 that I plan to sell.

I would let one of the r985 jugs go

yes the very same. I’m going to keep it for now. I plan to do something b17 themed with it.

I’ve got 3 more. And was planning to make a lamp. Have 2 for a r985 and 1 for a r1800

All finished. Now I have a real WWII aircraft engine in the house and the wife actually likes it. Mostly made from discarded parts

I made the plug wires using old m37 and m151 leads . They screwed to the r985 spark plugs The base screws had to be drilled out to fit the r985 wiring manifold. Added the push rods and it started to look like a motor