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Another option can be to make the bends in metal tubing and use a length of hose at each end for the flex.

It is a moulded hose. It is not available for purchase. You'll have to make due with straight hose.

If an 8mm wide seal will fit there is a CRW1 style which is a single lip with metal outer ring. These would be less expensive. SKF part number is 15821

40x55x7 ok. There are two options in Viton. HMS5 is rubber covered single lip and HMSA10 is double lip The single lip style is SKF part number 692464 The double lip style is SKF # 692466

Darn, I can almost make out the dimensions from that picture.

I'll be hole sawing the back of the cab. I hate the ideal but it's so easy to use some 3M VHB tape to patch it when I'm done I don't know why it stresses me. It's the driver's side rear cab bolt that seized.

Does any have a favorite body bushing kit form the K30 based trucks? I've got the core support off and they're pretty rough hardware wise. I'd like to do the cab as well but one of the blind nuts is spinning 🤬.

If you have dimensions I can get a part number for a Viton seal that won't dry out and crack.

A fully charged battery does not equal starting fresh. Batteries lose capacity over time while they can be charged fully they lose their ability to drive the amps required to start an engine. If the battery can sit at 12.6 volts, it is fully charged. Put your volt meter directly on the battery...

Normally, a wire spacer is put behind the seal to get it off the groove in the shaft. Seals typically sit in a step in their housing so they can't be pushed in further. I would be surprised if the groove were so bad it would cause significant leakage immediately with a new seal. I would look...

Gaskets go on dry as much as possible. Coating gaskets causes gasket extrusion. RTV and Anaerobic gasket makers are the best and most current options for form in place. All of the other stuff is obsolete at this point. For the fuel pump, I used no gaskets, just anaerobic gasket maker. I don't...

Anti-seize should be called anti-gall. There are much better options out there to prevent thread corrosion. Low strength Loctite, silicone grease, Tef-Gel are all superior options. Loctite can be an ideal choice because it dries which facilitates painting. You can prep zinc coated fasteners...

Don't be tempted to use lithium grease here. That stuff hardens up quickly with time. Use a dedicated cable lubricant as mentioned above, typically silicone based. Check your local bicycle shop if you can't find it elsewhere.

One piece of advice, and this is especially important for hydraulic hoses that see impulse and vibration, is to apply the chafe gear to both sides if possible.

There are compression fittings that are superior to flared fittings. They're too expensive to be used for production vehicles which is why you don't see them. It's not because they are inferior. Swagelok and clones are prime examples.

The unit under the radiator is only a differential pressure sensor, not a valve. If it senses a pressure difference between front and rear due to a loss of fluid it shifts and turns on the warning light.

I believe drum brakes auto adjust when reversing. Do a couple of quick stops in reverse to get everything synchronized up.

So SKF is actually recommending preload on tapered roller bearings for longest life. I guess that means some drag is acceptable. I wonder how backing off to the first key affects the preload. https://www.skf.com/binaries/pub12/Images/0901d1968065f1f4-Bearing-preload_tcm_12-299896.pdf

Definitely an option. The way it sits right now, I only ran in to one of the mounting holes. The arm also has the wrong bend to it and hits exhaust and the eventual doghouse. I'm going to try putting the 3rd bolt hole in the doghouse and use standoffs on the other two. Then I just need to...

Yokohama has decent prices on 37x12.5-17 tires. I'm not a HMMWV guy but where did the 18" rim size come from? It seems like you're shooting yourself in the foot with an odd ball wheel. I believe I paid $1700 for 5 tires in 37 on 17 inch rims.