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An observation from seeing your avatar, and your statement considering an overdrive kit... I've got 395's on my truck, and can still (barely) drive up a 5-6% grade without downshifting to 4th. If I had an overdrive kit, I'd be "living" in 4th gear much more, and limiting my speed to about 45...

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DOH!... that sounds like something I'd do!

Time to take advantage of wsucougarx's thread here; https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?75970-Turbo-Rebuild-3LJ-319-(Whistler)

Really purdy machine work... gotta project planned for all that oak?

We're talking about the allen-head set-screw, behind the allen-head plug, right? Have you had the top/cover off, and checked visually to make sure someone hasn't put a lock-nut on it or something? Just trying to imagine what would bind it.

My air filter was supposedly new 15 months before I took delivery of my truck, and it still looked quite clean. But, it took about 10-12 5 gal. buckets of dawn and warm water before it stopped turning the water so brown/green that you couldn't see the bottom of the bucket through the water...

There are some other things that may be contributing to your smoke... If you have an LDS, it's just flat-out going to smoke more than an LDT. If yours isn't an LDS; Have you washed out your air filter lately? Even though it may look clean, you might be surprised at how much filth will rinse out...

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I'm hoping this latest volley will keep the old one working for a much longer stretch this time, but next time it starts hissin', it's getting replaced with something like the one in the OP!

Just got done "fixing" my old low air switch because it was leaking again. Last time it really was full of years-o-crud. This time it was clean inside, but the hex ring holding the contact/diaphragm came a little loose and caused the leak. It's very simple to work on, but I'd rather avoid the...

I'm thinking a stainless clevis pin, with a stainless e-clip, may be the easiest, and cleanest-looking way to go. The picture is from Grainger, but I'm sure they're available from Fastenal, and lots of other places too.

During a torsion load on the frame (eg. twisting while off-road) won't that concentrate stress at the ends where the stronger part joins the existing frame? Also, if you're putting that much more weight on the back of the truck, wouldn't a set of deuce front springs be a better choice than 1.5...

This is a pin that I fab-up to replace a problematic factory part in my competition shotguns. It's just a hardened dowel pin, cut to length, and then the ends are grooved to accept E-clips. I use a lathe, but no need for fancy tools, the grooves can be cut with a thin cut-off wheel in a dremel...

Too bad you didn't have a clear path to gently "sweep" it off the air cleaner (with a 12 gauge, birdshot, followed by the garden hose)

- I admit I'm cynical, but with the crap some shops try to pull, I won't trust that any injector is working right unless I see it with my own eyes. - One-hole nozzles = a bit more power, more fuel, and more smoke. - I'd make sure every inch of your air intake is wide open. We come across all...

We never did hear the details of your injector testing... Those things can dribble, druel, piss, do anything but hold pressure and pop if they aren't serviced and well-adjusted. Did you get 'er done? Did they chatter good? What PSI/BAR range did you set them to? Were they screw or shim-type...

Okay, after reading this, can't stand it any longer... Sorry for the little detour here, but I've read many of your posts, on many topics, and I've PM'd you a time or two for your opinion. I'm very impressed with your range of knowledge, the CAD drawings you come up with, etc. If you wouldn't...

I don't believe anyone would take offense... IIRC that outfit is run by John Tennis. Good man who's been a big help, and who's products & info have been recommended by many here. Got some of his handywork in the engine compartment myownself.

BoyceEquipment.com But I've spent many, many hours, and gone through heroic efforts to gain the benefit of the AC and heat; -Top is insulated with 80mil butyl & 157 mil closed-cell foam -Doors are carpeted and insulated with 315 mil closed-cell foam -Floor is fully carpeted & insulated with 80...