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I went with hangers from CFM industries that allows the use of 64" springs out back and 56" and mounts in the stock location

Are you keeping stock length springs front and rear?

If you’ve got a late model with the internal slave you can just use that setup. The AA setup moves it externally if you buy the added bracket, that’s what I have in my m1009. You can also just use it with mechanical linkage like a standard square body but I have no done it personally.

My turbo 6.2 is fine in Colorado.

And how’s it driving? I assume much more usable power

I can say this was not my experience in any way. I maybe have $1000 in my setup and that’s with changing things over time and ultimately buying an hx35 adapter kit and aftermarket intake manifold a few years ago. There are plenty of write ups on here to guide people. I also built mine in a...

My hx35 whistles quite a bit.

I went from sagging oem to poly and it’s for sure smoother and less vibration. That’s my opinion though, results may vary.

I haven’t driven it with them yet but I had an 07 Sierra with them and they were great. I can’t stand the single piston d60 ones. I also had the calipers already, bought Yukon brand hubs and turned them down on a manual lathe and then the rotors just slip right over.

There’s a company that allows you to put modern 2500 brakes or dodge brakes on a Dana 60. I’ve got the 2500 setup with slip on rotors

Poly motor mounts really opens the space up and they feel much better than collapsed rubber

yep, 6.5 drivers won't fit. I just cut and modified the aftermarket crossover to work with my 6.2 manifold. The downpipe is hard, there's barely enough room between the manifold and frame rail IF you have good motor mounts. Running outside the frame is not ideal but is the path of least resistance.

I'm T'd off the driver side where the pressure sensor is. Has been fine for many many years.

The 6.5 downpipe will not work on a square body, it will have to be custom, you can snake it thru between the block and frame rail and having good motor mounts makes a big difference. You can also run it outside of the frame but it doesnt leave a lot of room for a muffler or to get it to the...

I'm running tuff country HD front springs and a shackle flip in the rear with extended shackles. I had to put an add a leaf in the back due to sagging stock springs. I wouldn't hesitate to get tuff country rear springs either (skip the block). I bought a set of extended braided brake lines...

Cool is subjective for sure. I can tell your preference I’m guessing haha I’d much rather spend the money on a quality filter like an AEM, amsoil or even airaid dry flow filter.

Or don't put one on at all because I've literally never seen a cucv up to the roof in water......

I haven’t actually tried myself on the drivers side but I swear I saw pictures of a 6.5 drivers manifold basically pointing right at the frame rail on a square body. Guess I’m wrong then if you’ve actually done it.

The drivers manifold hits the frame, this is why I just used the flange and modded a 6.5 crossover. It was pretty easy all things considered.

Also I would recommend skipping a factory gm turbo and using an hx35, hx40 or super 60 from quadstar. Use all the other turbo stuff from the 6.5 (is do an aftermarket upper intake manifold as well)