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So, what did you do to get her going, pumps need to be cleaned out like Rustystud was saying? How's it doing now.... everything working correctly? We all love it when another machine comes back to life! Congrats! :goodjob:

I wouldn't think you need a whole lot of clearance, provided you allow adequate intake/cooling air as well as exhaust clearance. You'll also need an enclosure that opens up or disassembles easily for fueling and oil changes as well as accessing the gages and controls, plus general maintenance...

I noticed you said you switched the selector to Prime and the pumps run.... maybe, just to be sure.... try making sure its the primary pumps that are running. You never know, someone may have plugged the pumps in wrong or wired the relays wrong and maybe it's actually the aux. pump that is...

Sounds like you've got 2 projects ahead of you! Stick the MEP-002a motor on your tractor and put either of the gas motors on the go-kart frame. Are your sons old enough to help with the build? It would be great to get them involved! Unfortunately my son is a bit too you still, but I'm looking...

I suppose the first thing I would check is the strainer in the bottom of the fuel pumps. The cap twists off the bottom of the pump and there is a mesh strainer in there, make sure it's not all clogged up. If it is you can wash it with carb cleaner or take the strainer out of your auxiliary pump...

No need to start with 320 to strip it down, it will take way too long, use way too much sandpaper and you'll go through a ton of Beer in the process. Start coarser and work your way down, it will go much quicker. On cars I start with 36 on an 8" rotary sander ( only strip 75% of the paint, avoid...

Bill W has it right. Paint thinner and mineral spirits for hot temps, Naptha for medium temps. Xylene for cool temps and you can use acetone for the fastest drying in cold temps. Thin it 10% up to 25% depending on your equipment. If you have painted with other automotive paints, this stuff will...

You can do it with your 4" wheel. Cut diagonally on like a 45 degree angle to help avoid cutting into the stop. Even if you cut the shaft a tiny bit, it won't matter, the race doesn't spin on the shaft, so a small nick won't affect anything. Cut as far as you can and split it open by pounding in...

Tom, I'd say something is drastically wrong there. That's running way too hot! You'll quickly destroy your stack (along with anything else near by) running it that hot. In general it seems like way too much fuel and way too much draft if you've got flames coming out the top! But I don't know...

A couple things that come to mind are: As mentioned before, gasoline shelf life is not the greatest, but if you really want the capacity in the event of an outage... You don't need anything bigger than 1/4" fuel line and shut off. You'll need to vent the drum when in use. When not in use, if the...

Kevin, You can also get it from www.Petrodirect.com PN 5200KTF1828 For $52.70 Grainger has it too, but of course it's almost double the price @ $92.00 And yes, Tuthill and Fill Rite are actually the same company.

You should be fine. 1 year is nothing for diesel. Bacteria growth is much more common in marine applications and other high moisture situations. Most likely you won't have anything to worry about.

To get the old tap out, they make a 2 prong extractor that fits into the space between the flutes of the broken tap and lets you unscrew it. Maybe you could fabricate something similar out of an old socket with a couple pins welded to it, or cut away the socket and leave 2 or 4 small pegs...

Nice find, brings back memories.... As a kid my father had a couple of these. During the blizzard of 78' we lost power for 2 weeks and we had one running with extension cords strung out like spaghetti, powering several neighbor's refrigerators and a few lights... not bad for a little 1 cyl. gas...

I wouldn't think your units would already have been bored out. I have zero experience with how the military maintains their equipment, but I would think boring the block would be beyond the limit that they would go before setting it aside for auction, especially a generator that new. Only way to...

Very generous offer indeed. My hat ( if I wore one) would be off to you, great to see people helping each other out just for the **** of it. Now go lock you door, once the word gets out they'll be knocking your door down! Congrats on the truck!

I wouldn't suggest wasting money on a HF welder. Sure it might be an economical way to get started, but I think you'll quickly find yourself wanting to upgrade to something a little bigger and better, even if the next step isn't the top of the line. I started with a 110V Lincoln for portability...

When you first mentioned using Evaporust and a cyl. hone for the 2007 I thought you were crazy. I would have anticipated it needing to be bored and sleeved with all that rust! I've never used Evaporust but looking at the pictures I can't believe the transformation. Apparently it really is...

Yes, Sort of... One of the manuals has a drawing of the actual regulator board I was trying to post, to show the location (green rectangular pot with a screw in the end located near the bottom center of the regulator board.) It is R15 in the schematic you posted. I need to practice posting...

I've been trying to upload the page out of the TM that shows the potentiometer I was talking about, but no luck so far. I think it's something with the firewall we have here at work. Either that or I'm just doing something wrong.... It was R15 or item#8 in the picture on pg 30 in the Unit Direct...