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Here is what I go on, that tells me the reset units do in fact get break in oil. The tag hanging from the E-stop is typically torn off, but only the zip tie remains.
I believe the regulator on these alternators is rated at 4A, so if you use a NOCO 5A x 2 Bank unit... it should suffice to keep the machine along in a dead alternator situation
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G3STB1N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thats what I use. I...
The Miata battery is only 320CCA. The NAPA AGMs are 500CCA
Miata - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT7581R
51R - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT9851RT
The most used option by myself on customer machines: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT7551R
If you buy online today (and pick up...
Do you see the cast iron hold downs that keep the metering pumps in place on the side of the engine? Very similar concept to what's up top for the injectors.
You will want to take the roof off over the engine for this. The screws over the radiator and elsewhere screw into captive nuts, just...
Was it the stock line? I replace the OEM garbage line with this: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/safety-stripe/gates-safety-stripe-fuel-hose/gats/27000?q=27000
Buy a package of new 1/8" plastic vacuum tees (in case the ones in your machine show signs of age/brittleness) and replace them...
Looking to see if anyone in the greater area might be able able to help me out with something. I know this is an odd post for this area, but my question is related to people who are familiar with the 80X machines. A private message from anyone who might be in the area, and willing to assist...
There are multiple variations of the TMs, with different trailing numbers (-10, -24, -24p, etc). They all house different pertinent info.
Happy to explain the differences if you aren't aware. Won't repeat what you already know, if you do. :)
It won't hurt cleaning up the internals. Sometimes its external buildup due to lack of use, settling of crankcase humidity mixed with oil residues, etc. Just let us know what comes of the freehand test on the rack movement first.
By removing it from the block and soaking it in carb cleaner. Its not terribly difficult. Get well clear of the outage and tackle it then when you have a few days.
I would undo the linkage from the rotating arm on the block, and see if the spring freely pulls closed. Then articulate it fully open, and see if it naturally snaps back closed. If it doesn't, I would start to suspect a sticky metering pump (and possibly not the solenoid).
Do you have access...
You can choose to desolder whats there and use all new... or just use a black cap on a grey housing (which I have done countless times) and move on with life :)
Well I think they will be under the 10A trip if they just want to power a fridge. Aren't they wonderful? Worth their weight when you need one, especially for an extended outage.
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