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Well they could choose to ignore me like my teenagers do :ROFLMAO:

I don't want to volunteer them, but I think @kloppk and @cbisson have some knowledge about solar and gensets.

One thing to think about too... if they are already at the stage of utility shutdowns, whose to say they wont have some sort of restriction on the use of generators in private hands during these same times? Overreach is governments middle name.

If you are happy with the air cooled platform, which you clearly are, wait and find what you want. I would absolutely consider a non grid tie system as listed above, to supplement what you already have. Especially if you live in a fire prone area. Anything tied to the grid will be an issue in...

Well you can either find shorter J hooks, use a universal bolt down battery holder, or find some length of threaded rod and put a washer and lock nut on the side sticking out of the J hook cutout, and cut to length to use with the stock brackets at the back edge of the battery. Few ways to skin...

There are three basic manuals for the complete genset, ending -10, -24, and -24P. Do you know the use of each? Just this key detail will greatly aid in answering any question you might have... where to look first.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Siemens-Standby-Power-Interlock-Kit-PON-125-Amp-and-Below/5012957113 And I got that part number from a 'SIEMENS Product Expert' review comment found here: https://www.homedepot.com/p/questions/Siemens-Standby-Power-Interlock-Kit-125-Amp-and-Below-ECSBPK04/203262158/2

Well as soon as you get the good info share it. Happy to help find the best unit for that exact model.

With the condition you described with the original pump state, even if you freed the rack pin, you may still have a non functioning pump. They should be disassembled and soaked to get to the inside pumping mechanism.

You should be able to loosen the hold downs and rotate each barb and then tighten back down. You might need to undo the hard line attached to the top though, as it can provide downward pressure and inhibit this rotation. This range directly effects how much fuel you are allowing the pump to...

I assume the make and model is on the label on the door?

The pump arms that the larger fuel lines go into, should be as close to the push rod tubes as possible. It looks like they are closer to the cast iron hold downs than the tubes? Whats up with the fuel stop solenid? It looks broken and disassembled. Are you manually rotating the fuel rack for...

Photos speak volumes

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-systems/universal-fuel-pump/p/delphi-universal-fuel-pump-24-volt/555670_0_0 appears to possibly work too.

If you want to go with one that I know works, without disturbing the aux assembly, this is what I see: https://www.bigmikesmotorpool.com/products/24v-electric-fuel-pump-kit

Seems the Airtex E8131s arent available anymore online.. and I think the 8135 was a cross as well, which I am also having trouble finding past obvious Chicom generics. If your primary pump is DOA, and you need to get a working solution NOW... you can take the rear fuel tank cover off the...

Does she have open breaker positions in her box? You could go even lower tech (but just as safe) and move the top RH (2) breakers and put a simple interlock kit in place. They make specific models, for specific breaker panels. They are low tech, and work perfectly every time (and are very easy...

I have a 200A service too, and I am able to run everything except my dryer without fault. Multiple fridges, multiple freezers, gas range, gas FHW, lights, tv, internet, well.

Honestly she should be able to keep them all on, if those appliances are gas and have no high draw coils in them. Well pump? Whats the range, oven, and clothes dryer powered by?

I think we understand now. Do know though the more technically correct you can be with terminology, the more common the understanding will be between those helping, and those in the future searching through threads seeing if anyone else has had the same issue as them.