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I will check with the MFG on the charger. Hopefully I get a decent response and not the CYA response. I know the cell tower generator I once bought had the charger connected all the time but maybe the circuit powering the charger was not backed up (doubtful). Regarding inside or outside...

If the sensed voltage is over a set point the maintainer doesn’t turn on so I do not believe it would cause any harm to remain plugged in while the alternator outputs power

I believe the alternator puts out 4A and my maintainer puts out 2.5A. I am unsure of the generators DC amp draw while running but I would expect the 2.5A charger to keep it running for a long time if not indefinitely if the alternator fails.

So, if the alternator fails it will only run for about 10hrs until batteries drain? I should be able to extend that some since my maintainer is always plugged in to shore power.

"connected to house electrical system, 4 wires connected from house to generator lugs, bonding strap disconnected. You are using the house electrical panel ground." I believe this is where you have to be careful as some switches disconnect the neutral. It is my understanding that the statement...

Each line on the Hz gauge represents 0.5 Hz. Did you think each line was 1 Hz?

I have just three words after seeing that, especially with all the testing you did to locate the problem "check chassis grounds"

X2 Noticed that when I installed the battery tender.

It is my understanding that if the ground path is uninterrupted, as with most interlock setups, then it is properly grounded for powering the house. And, if you wanted to power something remotely that is not on the house circuit then it needs to be wired differently, have the ground rod driven...

If it is connected to the house panel and grounded there, you do not need or want a second ground by driving a ground rod. The ground rod is for stand alone power generation where the unit is not connected to another ground.

Can you repeat that in a different color?

I have a Geospring hot water heater and leave it on all the time in heatpump mode. Runs on 500w after the initiation sequence, which fires the 5500w resistance heating elements to verify they are working. It only take a couple minutes to run the sequence, so I turn that breaker on first before...

100,000 hours is not equal to 100,000 miles or you are driving really really slow. I went with the 803, because my "smart" hot water heater has a startup sequence that fires the electric elements which requires 5500w. Don't expect to operate much electric heat even with an 803. I heat with...

I would put a battery maintainer on it first chance you get, so it is always charged and ready to go. If I didn't have one on mine, I am sure I would have been down the same road already.

X2, most small tractors today are short stroke high rpm jobs that suck fuel and make power at upper revs. I was thinking PTO generator before buying my 803, but couldn't justify taking a $30k tractor and putting generator hours on it, plus I might need it during a storm. There is a farmer up...

If the AC is on, why do you need a lengthy pre-heat?

I wan't promoting auto start, that just happened to be part of the technology which allows for remote monitoring. I'm sure there are much more simple device out there that one could connect simply to monitor volts, Hz, etc. remotely via phone instrad of a kill-a-watt meter. I have one meter for...

While on this subject, I would also like to mention that I now use a digital kill-a-watt meter to verify / adjust voltage and Hz at the power unit as well as monitor from inside my house during outages. I do not rely entirely on the control panel mechanical gauges when making adjustments and I...

When I made this mistake, it was the first gauge I recall encountering with .5 increments. Honest mistake when I typically deal with lines meaning 1 or 2. The good thing is that it is a lesson you do not easily forget.

Been there myself