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Got the gauges in and wired.
Wired up a manual switch for the trans cooler fans and a separate 30a relay fuse and switch to energize accessory power.
Also anyone wanting to run regular sized switches I was able to find some adapter plates that work well. I guess they are for a polaris rzr but...
Well I did turn the fuel screw 1/4 turn or so and advance timing a touch and the Westgate line is pinched. I've seen this setup work really well and give a little pep to a 3116 in a gmc my buddy had. I am putting pyro boost and trans gauges as a percaution.
As this is a log truck it'll see...
Ya that's exactly what I did just capped the air lift tube off toward the pass side by putting a plate in thru the hole I cut to run the exhaust into the air lift tube. And moved lots of hoses and wires to avoid the heat. I still have to cut my mount for the hyd pump off and move that away from...
Well I did fry the light switch but I wanted to rewire that to a regular rocker switch so I did that and then found my mistake and rewired the brake controller signal from k6 to k10 and now it's all good.
Ya I see what you mean about the precleaner design and it really shouldn't be a problem. Our chipper has a 8.3 Cummins and has a filter half the size and is in the dustiest environment any of my equipment will see and it needs to be cleaned often but that's normal. They really built thses things...
I just thought I'd share some of the progress I've made on this project.
Another more to go. But just reorganizing the stuff behind the cab took a ton of time.
I'm at week 4 of a 25week wait on the pto I ordered so plenty of time left to finish.
I also bought a 25ft 20 ton tag...
I got it....but ya ik px 15 is the connector. I meant the k wire on it was shorted. But it ended up being that I had the trailer plug wired wrong and the brake wire was grounded in the trailer plug. It's all fixed again and I pulled 12v signal for the brake controller off of the output on k10...
Also of the 2 output wire from relay k6 one has short to ground the other is open. If I remove the grounded wire it won't blow a fuse but still no brake lights. The px15 k wire is short to ground.
Ya main light switch was bad you were right but I bypassed it to a regular toggle....now I have power at 2 of the brake switch terminals again but as soon as I hit the brakes it blows cb 70 and cb76 and shuts off....also noticed the lowest of the three 4 pole diodes on the panel melted a little...
I'd go with Montana then if VT is being like that. Go to tlcllc.com and it's real easy. I di have to have it "inspected" as part of the process but by a local to me police officer...just call the non emergency line and they will have someone come out.
Not sure if this will help anyone but I was going to go the VT route for my 1088 and ended up finding it much easier to add it to my Montana llc and reg/title it that way. Got the plates and title back already took like 3 weeks. And being that it's owned by a pit of state biz they can't make you...
So I did get it fixed well took the heater out and didn't find any damaged wiring at alll....but then after putting it back together I had 12v at the brake switches and the brake lights worked.
Now I am putting a red arc brake controller and I was pulling brake light signal for it from the...
I've had the whole dash out and the whole relay panel a few times now(the yellow locks for relay terminals were missing and dislodged), that and getting 12/24 relays to correct spot fixed 99% of electrical issues I had.
But I didn't see any shorted wires....I'd guess it's behind the heater?? Or...
Thankyou so much for the explanation!! I think I got it I'll post back, hopefully with success this weekend when i get to the shop to work on the truck.
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