Search results

This should help.

I’ve had both and to me the rev truck seems to ride better and is more enjoyable as built (the fan/cooling difference is huge). But I like them original - it’s easy to upgrade that stuff, but since you have a gmv I’d keep it original. Don’t migrate stuff from a gmv to an 1165, that makes no...

Problem is his ecv is a GMV, should spend the money to restore it.

Body panels are the same, but things like the cooling stack, fan drive, transfer case, differentials are different and can’t be transferred over. Well, I guess they could but it wouldn’t be worth it - if your ecv trucks runs and drives you shouldn’t need much. You’d probably be better off taking...

Sorry - yes he’s on the Facebook groups. I agree about the roller doors, they really aren’t needed to get the look I was after, and the price of roller doors is high! If you can’t find him pm me and I’ll send you his number. Here’s a before photo from early October for reference.

Spent the last few weekends adding repro armor back to the Hmmwv - the 11 series trucks just look so much better to me like this. I sold off my a2 and used part of those funds to do it, even added the flat doors. This stuff I got from Jacob Garlitz bolted right up! I was impressed. I powder...

I swapped to a viscous clutch on my old A2 truck I had and it worked great, but I got it from one of the guys that makes them for the Hmmwv - it really was nice not having that loud fan kick in. My new 1151 is a rev truck and it’s super quiet when the fan “kicks in”, sometimes I don’t think it...

I would try adjusting the brake switch first.

This thread should help, has wiring diagrams with wire numbers too. Has the wire numbers as well, it’s easy to follow: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/hmmwv-no-power-to-tcm-no-transmission-light.217788/

I just recently went through this - maybe I can answer some questions. I added an M11xx series turret to my m1151.

Looks like a movie set honestly, like a Walking Dead type show.

Was able to get more done this weekend, over the last few weeks I finished shaping the plywood wall and epoxy priming it. I painted the wall with latex carc paint and installed it. Drilled holes for the door channels. Finished out the doors and temporarily installed them. I have both upper rails...

Part number for loop is 12338839-6

Here is a wiring diagram so you know what parts are in the system. First, I am a handy tinkerer with mechanical ability, not an a/c tech- but I fixed mine with this diagram and help from this forum. I suggest checking the rear relay, and maybe the pressure switch, but first verify your a/c is...

I recently got mine running, but to clarify is it the interior condenser unit cycling or the rear condenser/fan assembly? I’m assuming interior condenser. How are your pressures? Have you attached gauges? These will be variables that will need to be known.

I still see a little tread left, maybe a few more weeks.

Ok, day 1 went pretty good. Pic shows the parts I have so far - 3 brackets and door pulls/latches. I made a pattern of the sponson side with 1/2” plywood so it would be light and easy to work - good thing, took a lot of manipulation. Once I got it right, transferred the pattern (it’s reversible)...

So helpful, you are the best! I’ll post with some progress tomorrow hopefully

Any way someone with a rear wall could give me these 3 measurements before the weekend? About to make a pattern and wanted the rear door opening to be the right size. Door measurement would also be helpful. If not I’ll just estimate based on dead reckoning.

If you don’t plan on having a deep water fording kit the normal cdr will work just fine forever. Just plug any open hoses. Also, +1 on trading the operator manual so you don’t damage things - it’s short. Easy stuff like how to start it correctly and use the transfer case.