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Yes it is, no taking shortcuts, just do it right once.

Not only is the idler shaft really loose, but after taking the inspection cover off the side, found the intermediate shaft has some play too. Just ordered to nos center sections from eastern surplus, we have to go there and pick up 2 new tires, I will rebuild or rebearing the ones we take out...

My Fire dept has an M35a3 we received from Forest Fire service, It has served us well for the last 6 years with Water rescue and Brush Fires, I have Pm'd it every year, changed all the fluids, and flushed the rears when they were contaminated with water , getting ready for Fire season this year...

I bought one out of fort Meade a couple years ago and towed it home, it is a 67 with 67 dated tires. I would Jack it up and check for play,and two it home, I left the tarp and racks on mine , but whatever works for you. Good luck and congrats Duane

well, I rebuilt the air dryer, installed it, and started it, the truck instantly built air, and functions fine. so at this time I have no need to rebuild the head on the compressor, I thought the dryer was bad, because when I took the supply line off it, air came out like I was taking a line off...

took the mainline off the compressor and ran it, it has some air psi, but not a lot, talked to an airbrake place we deal with at work and he gave me a head maintenance kit that comes with the valves and gaskets, he said 99 percent of the time that will fix the problem, also got a dryer kit from...

our Fire dept m35a3 developed an air psi problem last night, took it out for a ride and it lost air psi, brought back, crawled underneath, and found thatwhile running it has air leaking out of the bottom of the dryer, not a large amount, and when I block the hole with my thumb, it still doesn't...

are you going to pick up all the snatch blocks they have, or did they have alot more than pictured there, I could use a second, and my fire dept needs a couple, but dont want to make the trip out there if they were the only ones left. Duane

here is a pic of our brush truck, we received this truck from the forest fire service, and did all the mods ourself, we have used it in multiple brush fires, off road recivery for other dept brush trucks, and water evacuation and rescue in hurricane irene and sandy, I would be happy to detail...

I actually checked for air leaks and found none, sprayed the hoses and fittings with soapy water, will add oil to the cylinder this weekend,. We placed 3rd in the pinewood derby with the #21 Trevor Bayne 2011 daytona 500 entry, we now move up to the district race in March. Duane

got to go under the truck yesterday, cranked the regulator up, steering is much better. NOT one fingered, but going to put the mavel mystery in next. thsnks and will let you know progress Duane

ok, will post the race AAR. LOL Duane

sounds like I have a good starting point to diag, will hopefully find some time this weekend, I have a pinewood derby car to finish for sunday so that takes priority for this week, but will post if i find anything or not. Thanks Duane

how well is the air assist on your m35a3? for normal road driving its ok, but when we (fire dept) take ours in the woods for Fires, it just seems as bad as manual steering, Im thinking its the nature of the beast but wondering if Im correct? Duane Helmetta Fire dept.

Hello Carnac, here is the info for my 1967 M715 wo/w serial number 16713 NSN number 2320009216365 delivery date 10/67 truck was transferred through DRMO to Helmetta fire dept in the 80's thanks in advance Duane Hoven can you do WW2 jeeps? or is that info long gone?

the way you are explaining it, it sounds like it was taking off like a high stall speed converter, sounds like forward clutches, i dont know what it costs to rebuild that trans, but TNJ murray has new ones for around 6000, if it was me, id be pullin it and bringin it to a trans shop. gotta be...

will do that, Thanks!!

I am calling eriks surplus today for valve stem grommets, I was going to pick up a O ring for the rim from him too, but it apears from reading these posts i would be bettter getting the orings from Mcmaster carr, is this correct? Duane and the Mcmaster carr part number is 9452K491, correct...

only the grommets are bad, they are dry rotted, amd bolt to the inner part of the rim with a nut on the back, after looking at old posts, i should have gotten them before changing the tire, because others have had the same problem, looks to be one of the main problems why the tires go flat...