Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
I did a Superlift 3.5" lift blocks in rear and ProComp front Springs because Superlift Springs were on back order. I have the 37" tires with OEM style 16.5" wheels. It will rub slightly off-road on the rear front fender. Some minor trimming is needed if you take if off road.
I have the...
Thanks for the confirmation. The guys at ProComp said many times if they have different batch#'s on them they came from different factories so that could be an explanation why the spring rate is different even though it has the same part #.
Part #11411. No instructions on their website that I could find. I used Superlifts instructions as I was using their parts kit. Here are some pictures.
The other thing that makes me think the shop is dead wrong is that the eye bolts are different sizes for the front. There fore the rubber bushing would need to be switched too (i guess it is possible someone put the bushings in wrong at the factory) .
And if you look at the original springs...
Yeah, exactly. If I spend another 5 hours crawling around on my garage floor switching them and it still has the lean...well I'd like to avoid that frustration if possible.
I've just installed my lift and I have one big problem. The front passenger's side is 1.75" higher than the driver's side. I called ProComp the manufacturer of the Leaf Springs and verifyed the part #'s were correct and that I installed them correctly (military wrap/fat end forward they tell...
Thanks. I used the ColorBond stuff found in the LMC catalog for the dash and door panels. I am happy with it. Just put lots of coats on it. In a few spots on the door panels I didn't get enough of it on and it scratched off just a little. I think I'll throw another coat on them in the...
I was able to get the glass and channel out without removing the vent window, but after 20 minutes of trying to get it just right getting in I gave up and removed the vent glass and then slid the door glass right in no problem or hassle. Vent glass was easy to remove and put back.
My door glass rusted and rotted out of the channel and I was having the same problem you are. I went to the salvage yard and just ended up getting the channel and glass as it all came out in one piece. It cost $20 plus while I was in there I took the regulator and rubber around the window...
My top speed going up Berthoud was about 40mph. The top of the pass is about 11,000 ft. I had a nice line-up of cars behind me. I pretty much stay in the truck lane and roll with the big rigs except they even pull away from me on the down hills.:(
I purchased an m1028 back in January and have been slowly trying to improve the truck. I recently painted it and put in new rubber mat and re-did the vinyl. This site has been a great resource. I've exhausted the 'search' function.
I also picked up troop seats and bows when I purchased it...
I just did this to my m1028. I put in two layers of sound dampening material on the floor and then installed the LMC molded rubber MIP floor mat. It is not as molded as advertised and I think the CUCV has a few things like the fire extinguisher mount that make it a more difficult install...
Sounds like fun. I probably won't be able to make it to that meeting. I'd still be interested in talking with your 6.2 expert sometime and would like to attend future meetings.
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!