Search results

Here is a video with both types of starter motors. The proper starter motor bolts. Both types of support brackets and the proper numbers of the brackets:

I put a NV4500 behind a 6.2 in my M715 12 years ago. I could not find a proven workable mechanical clutch throw out collection of parts at the time. I have not looked since then, but my hours of vehicle related internet time every day has revealed nothing on this subject. 2 things to add...

Yes, the firewall glow plug resistor can smoke during use. Here is a video about things that can go wrong with the resistor and things that can be bad if you bypass it: I would suggest you load test both batteries. If you don’t have a tester, pull them both and take them to an auto parts...

Check the connections on the firewall Buss bar. However, it reads like your starter might be the issue. Also, you shouldn’t have to wait to drive the truck after cold start up. Something with your injection pump or injection pump timing or maybe idle speed isn’t correct.

Since the gear only bolts on one way to the IP. You can turn the crankshaft all you want.

The first picture shows evidence of an electrical arc. Did you do that? The dash wiring picture shows you have several wires cut. I hate to write this because I have done this job twice. But, a new front wiring harness swap might be where you are headed. I see 5 cut wires and you mentioned...

Follow the positive wire from the battery tray. It should go to the starter motor. The number 10 wire mentioned above should come from the starter motor or a connection on the engine hidden by the air filter. Verify voltage along the way and keep following through the firewall until you have no...

If you are paying someone to do this swap then I am sure they will find things that don’t match up and require more time and money to make correct. With that in mind there are people on this site and around the internet with NOS brand new still in the crate M1009 rear axles that can be bought...

How often do you plan to be in 4x4? That is the only time the ratio between the front and rear matters. If you are always on loose surfaces then it won’t matter at all as close as the numbers are.

When you pick it up ask if they reinstalled the isolated ground washers? Those are essential.

What color is the smoke? Fluffy white is coolant. Blue is oil. Dirty white is cold cylinders not firing. Glow plugs. Black is too much fuel.

Is the cable actually breaking or the square end getting rounded smooth? I had success on one of mine by wrapping the square end with a single layer of aluminum foil. That tightened the slop up enough that I don’t remember which truck that was all these years later. Still working good which...

Thanks. I thought I had read that the other day but just looked back at the first post.

I read your first post again and can’t tell if the problem happens only when the air system has air or anytime. The links posted above are good tech to follow if it happens when there is air in the airpack system. If it happens when there is 0 psi in the air system. One suggestion is to adjust...

3 different answers are being given to a single question. Something to plug the hole such as my “Rubber cork” suggestion. A park similar to the OEM part from McMaster Carr. Followed by a OEM type part with a hole in it to be functional with a cable through it.

Rubber cork/plugs at Home Depot work as well.

Put a volt meter on the front battery with it running and see what voltage you get. Then go from there.

Great post! One of mine has gone to just hi speed lately. I will check into that plug. Thanks.

Here is where I got mine. They have the bigger tanks and hangers as well: https://www.lmctruck.com/fuel-system/gas-tanks-parts/csb-1973-91-gas-tank-and-components

Sometimes a new set of motor mounts are really needed. The stock ones can let the engine sag a large amount.