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Most paint manufacturers have a "red" primer available. This refers to an alkyd based primer. They work but they don't work well. There is nothing about an alkyd that makes it superior to an epoxy.
If you go with the jam but you need to install a thing nut first and then a thicker nut. Two nuts of the same width offer no additional locking.
The only effective lock washer is the wedge lock style.
Adding spacers to increase grip length helps.
Are you using a torque wrench?
It is best practice to paint IMMEDIATELY after blasting. Metal in air oxidizes, the layer can be microscopically thin so you don't see it. When you apply paint it adheres to either the metal or the oxides. On an atomic level, adhesion is a sharing of electrons. Paint sticks to metal and paint...
This thread has derailed but do keep in mind that the 6.5 engine can be purchased nearly complete for $8000. If you get water in the fuel and take out an IP on your 3.0 Duramax you can be out close to $20,000 just to repair the installed engine. Hate the 6.5 all you want because it's not a good...
The injection pressure is much higher than the popping pressure. Pressure continues to rise after the injector pops open.
However, there is no risk from cracking the nut on the injector. With the nut cracked pressure doesn't rise. This is also why the cylinder shuts off, the injector doesn't pop.
For industrial Cardan type shafts we design in 7° of misalignment. The universal joints need some amount of oscillation in order to support lubrication. With perfect alignment the grease squeezes out from under the needle bearings and if they don't roll they don't pick up any new grease.
Get some 17 inch 8 lugs, mine are off a 2000ish Dodge. Tons of 37x12.5 tire options available. I spent $400 on 5 rims from Rock Auto and $1700 for 5 non-Chinese tires.
Ideally, you want a Delco 28MT starter but they are rare in the GM pad mount configuration. Aftermarket pad mount noses are available. You can buy any other 28MT and convert it to pad mount by buying the aftermarket nose. If the pinion doesn't match those are available aftermarket as well.
Use the belt numbers listed. Don't use anything but Gates belts. Expect about 20-30k miles from a set of belts if you use Gates. Other top tier brands like Goodyear will throw. Regardless of which belt comes off, it will take others with it. These trucks are hard to drive without power...
I use a paint pen, mark the socket, place the socket on the bolt, mark the head 90 degrees from the socket mark, then hammer the bolt home (I do the heads with impact wrenches on the Cat 3500 series engines).
The GM service manual mentions cleaning and applying sealant to the bolt threads which implies reusable.
I think the confusion comes from this other paragraph. GM wanted the bolts replaced with a new longer bolt, not because the bolts are TTY.
I have honestly seen zero proof that ARP studs perform better than TTY bolts. If the bolts are not TTY then studs may perform better. Has anyone confirmed that 6.2 head bolts are actually TTY? Torque angle and TTY are not synonymous. I believe the head bolts on the 6.2 are torque angle and not...
The pre-cups are supposed to be a light press fit. I have seen a center punch used to improve the fit of the cup. Pick two spots outside of the fire ring of the head gasket just outside of the precup bore and mark two indentations with the center punch. This will retain the precup.
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