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You can use the float switches from the 802a. Ive done it a couple of times.

How many hours is on the unit? It sounds like the plungers are stuck. I had one with low hours stick. You have to take the top of the pump apart. Just take the hard lines off and then take the holders loose under the hard lines, then you will see the plungers. They should move up and down when...

The most common problem I have found with the 804a is the main fuel line coming from the tank to the mechanical pump on the motor. That particular hose degrades and will let air seep into the line not letting the system prime. It does not seep fuel so its hard to find. You can take the line off...

Do you have anymore Contact Industries K-1's or their part number?

It is an oring. You pull the throttle linkage out and replace the small oring. It can sometimes be a pain to get it aligned correctly with reassembly.

Yes. The only thing the wire loops control are the ammeter and your trip point for the breaker. Instead of tripping around 14kw its going to trip around 8-9kw

They are the same. Only difference is the number of wraps on the ct transformer on the bottom of the input box. Ive swapped many around. For $500 i would buy it. Many parts are interchangeable between the 2 machines. Control panel, injectors and pump, starter, cutoff solenoid, fuels pumps and...

Number 9 and 10 go to the actuator. So no voltage, no start. I would take the board off and look for burned spots on the back of the board.

Kloppk beat me to it. Lol! The other big issue Ive encountered with the 804a is the main fuel hose from the tank to the injector pump. It will degrade and actually leak air. Its the weirdest thing. It will not weep fuel. Ive had 12 or more with this issue. You need to take the hose off. Put your...

Ive had several issues out of the governor controls. Kloppk (Kurt) has fixed one of my boards recently. 1st. Test the mpu at the controller. Take number 16 and 17 off. Put you multimeter on ac and measure while starting. Should be around 3v. I had one unit that was loosing continuity and had a...

Check the governor control behind the gauges. Its on the back wall, usually blue in color. Check voltage on number 9 while cranking. It should say + Actuator. Ive had a couple of those governor controls go out and cause a no start.

Someone moved the reconnection board and when they reinstalled it they over tighten it which caused the stud to spin. Usually it breaks the eyelid attached to the stud and grounds out.

99% of the time its the capacitors on the fuel pumps. Look at the fuel pump and follow the wire out of the pump, it will lead you to the capacitors. They will be mounted next to the pumps, either cylinder type or square. Just cut them out completely, you dont need them. You can test this theory...

Ive rebuilt about 30 and always use the open gasket. Dont sandwich them. Good luck with your build

Im near the 004a and its junk. Guys been trying to sell it for along time. I havent seen any 803as or even 802a for under $2000 in years

This is the reason you dont hear the pumps coming on. Reach out to Klopp for a new board. Then for the voltage regulator, just update it with a newer VR. Several write ups about it.

On the 004 and 005 you can't use a regular 60hertz transducer because the gauge wont read correctly. Ive tried. I bought a couple of the 50hz - 60hz transducers you listed (part# 19280) that i hope will work if i have another fail. Ive had to use one of the newer 60hz transducers and a regular...

In my experience the T2 transformer fails which causes all the problems. The VR's you can still get online.

Jimmie, If you go to amazon or e bay and put in "advr054 regulator" then it will bring up the voltage regulator you need. That little regulator replaces the entire big box that houses the original VR. You will have 2 or 3 wires for the sensing (depending on single phase or 3phase that you are...

Or KLDR3 for FU2. Either Kurts or that part number will work. Be careful putting that large of a fuse in there, like Kurt mentioned.