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Ok so that is totally different from anything Ive seen. Thats for sure not an easygen 2500. I wont be any help with that one. Is there any stickers on the back of the display screen to show what the monitoring system is?

Send some pics of the actual controller display. Ive personally never seen the DRS data tag. All the units Ive messed with do not have that tag. The controller should be an EasyGen 2500. You can google that and get all the manuals. The ones I have worked on and my personal all used the factory...

You may want to seek out Kloppk (Kurt) because he is developing a new governor control to replace these and he may be able to fix your current controller.

That is one of the articles. I shared the conversion with Peter who owns Innovahightech because he was very confident that it could NOT be done. He contacted electrical engineers with Marthon and explained the conversion, to his surprise they confirmed the ability with my drawings. Rated output...

Let me see if I can find it. It wasn't a thread I started. The idea came from SmokeStak where an individual talked about a Bar Diamond connection. Worked on the theory with some other guys and it worked. The only set back we had was the VR. The original VR reads off all 3 legs to generate...

Yes Ive done it. Ive discussed it in the past. Its very simple. On my next conversion I will take pictures. Ive switched over around 20 804 and 805a's.

Make sure your connections are tight on the vr. I just had a unit with a similar problem and after wiggling wires that connect to the vr it would produce correct voltage when i held them in the perfect position. Took the vr off and checked the connectors and one was about to fall off the wire...

The voltage regulator is on the back wall behind the gauges. Look in and its to the left. Its a marathon 350. You can buy an aftermarket on ebay fairly cheap.

I have a buddy in Le Roy Illinois that has transformed several 805b's and 806b's into civilian units. Basically takes everything out of the control cubicle. Sales alot of his stuff on Craigslist.

Have you asked Kloppk if you could send in your board for diagnosising? He maybe be able to fix it. No guarantees but worth a try

Message Poccur. He is the expert on these. Ive gone through several and have 3 on hand now so i maybe able to help.

You're doing great. To adjust the set point for overspeed, look at the blue box on the back wall inside the control cubicle (behind gauges). At the top center you will see several adjustment pots. Look to the right and it says Overspeed, take a small flat head and turn it 90 degrees clockwise...

Ill check and see if I can find you one.

Unplug the fuel pumps first and try to start. See if it pops after they are unplugged.

My theory is that its there to keep the return lines from back flowing into the pump which would help with priming. Removal has never affected the priming of any of my units. Even sitting for a few months I can go straight to start and starts up perfect.

I always take a small brass punch and bust the glass ball to remove it completely. Its not needed. It will continue to give you problems because it will stick.

I just used a 9" long float in a 803a. From the bottom of the tank to the top of the flange is 10". 9" gives 1 inch level on the bottom. Works good

When does cb1 trip? Turn the master switch run, turn the battle short on, does it trip? If so the fuel pumps have capacitors that short and will trip cb1. Just have to cut the capacitors out and splice the wires together.

Poccur maybe able to help. That is a turbo charged lpw4 able to hold 20kw. I have one and its a beast.

The unit you have is rare and not very many people deal with them. Im one of the few. POCCUR is the expert on any HDT HVAC unit. He developed and worked for HDT and he has helped me tremendously over the years. The manuals are not available, only from HDT.