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Oh the irony, air cooled motor filled with water. Perfect reason to drop a V12 Screamin Jimmy in it.

Looks like they made the air cooled engine in v8, v12, and maybe v10. Surest way to tell would be to stick your head up in the wheel well and count. Looks rough, and I would think finding parts would be though in the US, maybe some of the European members have some ideas? If engine is too bad...

Sure looks like it has 600GAL, 400GAL, and 200GAL stenciled up on the spine of the tank.

If you installed the hub on the spindle with the seal and spindle dry, I would pull it back apart to inspect the seals for damage, then lube them as well as the surface on the spindle they ride on before reassembly. As previously stated the inner bearing needs packed with grease and packing the...

If you use a high ratio multiplier, convert to inch pounds and adapt down to you inch pound wrench. Much less error likely other than friction loss in the multiplier

Engine should turn quite easy with the injectors out, usually by hand. Also checking the starter for drawing high amps does not always confirm the starter is good.

Try this… @74M35A2

Thanks USOF. I’m in!

Also, keep it clean and if you don’t want to fly it while traveling, remove it and stow it respectfully out of site.

Front right corner of the vehicle, and shouldn’t touch anything other than its staff at any time. Also, if you must fly it at the same time as your propaganda make sure the flag is higher.

I can only assume they are jettisoning bad reviews? Only one on these, and it’s 5 stars… Repopping someone’s part/design is bad enough, but including the original companies name on the fake needs to be a top priority for some US entity to combat!

I would also roll the motor over by hand before you do finally crank it to be certain not to hydrolock it.

All good advice above… With lack of funds and likely time, the very first thing I would do before moving or cranking the truck and mixing the water into the oil, would be to crack every oil drain plug, or low resivor line (engine, trans, axles, air compressor, power steering, hydraulic ect)until...

I think it may work with fairly flat roads and the correct bed/substructure design, but to start before with you get too deep, it might be worth dropping a barrier wall block or other appropriate weight in the rear of the bed to simulate your load, and see how it feels. Then you will have to...

Karl, check out post #21 and #26 in this thread. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/ever-see-inside-the-protective-control-box.113634/page-2 If you try this, do not remove the jumper between C&D while the engine is running, it will have the same effect as turning your battery switch off...

You’ll want the 250 for site work unless exhaust noise is a big issue the 8.3 is much quieter. The 8.3 has a hard time getting rolling in high range with heavy loads on soft ground, run in low range you’re likely to have an operator split the transfercase in half.

Yes, search 30 amp Anderson connectors, or SAE connectors for cheaper, smaller gauge options.

Looks like two tanks nested together on one skid.

Yes, the slave plug connects to a truck to power the 24v air compressors for the refueling system.

Yep, my first guess was correct, thats what I call a power divider. I cant help you there as far as top loading Rockwell’s.