Search results

I don't know if I can/should post a full link to another site that has them, so try this. Google "M211 Power Train (Part 1 of 6)" quotes included. The first response back shoud be a site ending in ca/m135.htm. Pick it. I would go first for TM9-8024pt1, as it has a more involved troubleshooting...

I used one from a 1954 Chevy Bel Air 235 L6, Cardone branded, from Advance Auto Parts (part #30-1609). Had to use a collar type clamp, instead of the two hold down clamps found on the military distributor. It cost about $55 with core charge. I don't remember if I couldn't readily find a...

I answered this in the other thread, but you may not have seen it. Napa# 36540 worked for me.

Napa# 36540 worked for me.

The original hydra-matic tanny had the reduction unit bolted to it and had a single speed, divorced, transfer case. With a replacement transmission you will most likely loose the reduction, unless they came up with some other solution. I have heard you can modify the transfer case to be two...

I may be missing the jist of some of your testing descriptions, but it seems to me the problem could be in the transfer case, maybe the linkage to the front driveshaft sprag gears. The fronts should only "pull" when the rear wheels slip. You can test this by jacking up one of the front tires...

Haven't seen an update recently and was wondering if you gave up. Hopefully not. Since you've no doubt checked the linkage several times, I think NDT is on to something about checking the internals of the reduction control valve. You also said Tom was mentioning checking for rust and you said...

This is just a thought...When you put it back together and retest, leave the reduction unit linkage disconnected from the tower. You can reach down from the cab, grab the rod and either pull it forward for low or push it back for high (if I remember correctly). This way you can isolate the...

linkage is real important for all aspects of the transmission. They control not only the shift points, but also there is a rod which goes to the rear reduction on the transmission. I can't offer much help other than checking the linkage twice, but I do know Tom from alfa-heaven will have an...

What time is everyone arriving at the 5A "event"? My truck is in parts right now for a referb, but since I live nearby I was thinking of stopping by just to check out the others. And for the folks heading there the place is actually Scottsmoor. You can't really miss it. Once you're at either...

You probably find, once you get in there, that the spur gear on the adjuster no longer has any teeth on it. You will eventually get it to move. I had some doubts myself when I did mine, but it is far less work to get the whole assembly off as one unit. Your mileage might vary, but on the really...

Not that I exactly recommend this, but I had some success with a small jack to break the rust weld between the drum and hub by placing the jack base on the frame and the rod on the drum lip. I applied just enough pressure to "pop" the drum free. Then I released the jack and worked the drum off...

Yes pricey, but try the Napa 2842 master cylinder @ $239. I couldn't fine a decent used one and tracked this down as the replacement number. Works fine...no stuck brakes or other issues some members have found with replacement MC.

I don't have any information on them. I'm new "at the game" and was lucky enough to have gotten 24 used cylinders. About half of them were hone able.

Napa 36540, now listed at $33.99, fit fine on mine. Just keep the existing lock washer and nut as the new ones don't come with it.

I can get the NAPA number tomorrow. I just replaced mine. The vent lines are the same part number. They are just mounted "turned around". That big brass fitting on the top of the axle pumkin is where the large end (5/8ths X24 if I remember correctly) of the vent hose goes. For the brake the...