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Fixed. Blown fuse well not blown but melted

It's not, I'll have to check if there is a short in it tho

The last few days my all lights would hesitate to come on. Now all exterior lightning, flashers, brake and tail lights, horn and dash lights won't work. The warning lights and the 4wd indicator work. I replaced the blackout lights relay but that didn't do anything. I haven't had time to poke...

if my third one rings out at .5 i have a hard time believing all 4 are bad. maybe the tm is wrong or .5 is within tolerance.

Ill check the pack in my other 1009 tomorrow when the weather clears. Does anybody have a source for these? Anybody feel like checking theirs and see what they get?

like this

The resistor pack, on both packs i got the same reading, hooking the leads up to the wires.

update The resistors i ordered came in check the resistance and got .5 ohms. cleaned up the ring terminals on both the original ones and the replacement and checked it again. Got .5 ohms on both so i put the first one in. Just got done changing the glow plugs, which wasn't so much fun, on the...

ill check them tomorrow, its been a while since an electronics class, aren't most resistors like 10-20% tolerance? thought it was strange that the tm was so exact with what the ohms should be

Ok guys, just to clear some things up. The inline electric fuel heater is a 12v, thermostatically switched. i have it wired to a switch and relay off of the 12v bus so it doesn't kill the batteries on a cold night. this is what i forgot to shut off and it killed the batteries. The first battery...

I parked one of my 1009s the other day and accidentally left an electric fuel line heater on overnight, so in the morning the batteries are dead. No big deal, i try to jump it with my other one. No go. Pull the batteries, charge them, still nothing. Crank and white smoke, i have fuel to the...

Unless someone has one laying around, they aren't available. They are discontinued. I found one of the tabs broken on mine and i welded it back together.

the other day it happened again and i could not get it to start. i got most of it ripped apart. i think i have a short somewhere in the lighting system. when checking the red wires in the ignition switch you should have 12v all the time, correct?. i have 12v there untill it turn the lights...

The rest of the electrical system seems to work. Head and tail lights, brakes, etc

This has happened to me 4 times. One was this morning and the latest this afternoon. This morning, while it was still dark out, Turn key one click to everything light up as normal, water in fuel . glow plug wait etc. When i turn the key to crank it over, nothing. No click no crank. I noticed...

First time doing universals. I usually go to the TMs instead of the civi manuals. Looking at the haynes manual now. It mentions the plastic retaining rings on pg 277. It just says press them to shear the plastic, notihing about heat. Good to konw now.

The tm 9-2320-289-20 didn't say anything about the plastic or the fluid leaking when the shaft was removed. Thats why i was wondering

Thanks. I didn't know if the fluid leaing out was normal or not. First I tried banging out the bearing caps with a hammer and punch and I got nowhere like that. I ended up picking up a 12 ton press and pressed them out. They were still difficult. They "snapped" out. There was no bearing rings on...

Looks like i can just do this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esFT1doSSyo

Just pulled the rear propeller shaft to replace a bad u joint. What looks like aft started pouring out of the transfer case. Is it prob the rear seal? Can the extensioin housing be removed and the seal replaced then reinstalled with out pulling the whole t case off the truck? Im looking at 5-21...