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The Vintage Air kits are all electronic for the GM trucks. You can go to their website and get the installation manuals. May be as simple as a wire not hooked up
Wire wheel takes it right off. We use 3m window weld 08609. Put the glass in first. Run your bead between the cab(where the urethane was to begin with) and seal. Install the lock strip. Have clean up and towels handy in case any excess oozes out.
The winch mount integrated into the grille guard is plenty strong if done right. No need for all the excess and unsightly(IMO) strapping. There are ways to reinforce the grille guard and frame mounting brackets that provide more than adequate strength for the winch. Been building them similar...
yep, purple and purple and white spliced together. If its not, you have something else messed up elsewhere. IS the solenoid(purple) wire on the right stud on the new starter? From my experience the direct drives use the stud closest to the engine while the gear reduction until use the outside...
Ah yes, forgot about the DC.Been a decade or so since i actually had to diagnose one. Guess I better get the service manual back out and refresh my memory. As for the band, I was referring to checking apply pin length. Short pins will have reverse for a little bit, but fail fast.
AS for the...
Loss of power is usually a TCC issue. It can be an issue in the converter itself, worn bushings etc. No reverse can be many things( nothing electronic though), but usually incorrect band installation. Sounds to me like they didn't do a good job on the rebuild on top of electrical issues...
The quick 1 and 4 controllers are both great. The quick 1 would probably be just fine for your application. They both only take a couple hours to install and that includes programming it on the computer before you hook it up. Have to have a Windows based computer for the software to program...
Im not a big fan of NAP's a/c set up, but I do like Vintage Air's. You can order the kit minus compressor. This will allow you to run the factory a/c compressor on your serpentine setup. Below are some pics of one I just installed on a M1009 sold to gentleman in LA. it was still in progress...
You're temps sound fine to me. Mine seem to run around 6-700 at 75 with 35 in tires, 4l80E..converter locked…4 PSI ( these are with 6.5 GM-1 and 3 turbos, not a banks, but should be close)
THe 400's in the CUCV's can be mated to either 205 adapter. The doubler conversion kit is middle 700's from 2 reputable places. THey build kits for both the figure 8 and round pattern 205's. Also, if you have a round pattern 205 (85-91) you will need to switch to the short output like in the...
I would try and stick with 92-93 so you can keep the mechanical pump and trans computer as stated above. My M1028 has the 6.5 and 4l80 from a 92. It was originally a 2wd, but swapped in the 4wd output when I had the trans rebuilt. I was able to use the original wiring for the engine and...
Ill see what I can do. ITs sitting on stock tires now. Sold the 36's to upgrade to 37's and bead locks..now he is thinking bigger. The transfer case had some unknown issues, so it will be coming out, the trans is getting replaced with a 4x4 unit and an Atlas 2 is going in. So it will be...
Make sure the positive wire doesn't touch the VM case. A better way would to test it would be just jumper the terminals the resistor connects, as the resistor is an isolator as well. Keeps the positive wire from grounding on the case which could ruin the VM along with blowing the fuse. Also...
I thought they were the same until 95, with the 94 back being around .937 wide and the 95 up being .6xx. All other dimensions being the same.. I know they changed input/planetaries around then if remember right.
You should be fine. Like I said, I have done many leaving the factory gaskets in. Just remember, and I tell all my customers this when I do swaps, these gaskets are going on almost 30 years. They may last the rest of the engines life or fail tomorrow. IF you know you are going to abuse it and...