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Thanks for the replies. I did get two samples from Home Depot the other day. I will probably paint some test sections on the CARC and the civilian gloss and see if there is a difference once it cures/dries. The Home Depot was able to immediately pull up the FS numbers based on the instructions...

I am restoring a 1986 M1009. I swapped the CARC-painted hood and fender with civilian ones in better shape; the new ones are painted in a normal civilian gloss-type of paint. I want to paint the truck with FS #24052 (USMC semi gloss forest green); Behr Premium Plus Ultra or Marqee (not sure...

I had a very similar problem and replaced the fuel filter, that didn't fix it. Then installed a new mechanical fuel pump, still didn't fix it. Replaced the injection pump and that fixed it.

Streamline, thanks for the reply. My M1009 is about to go to a local painter then Line X probably. The last part will be these parts and finishing up the interior and weather-stripping.

Yep. Thanks for the help. The actual switch was bad.

My short ended up being the coolant temp switch for fast idle and timing advance. One of the tangs was grounded. The replacement fixed it; 20 amp fuse no longer blows.

Did you order this stuff?: I need the same items. If you did order these items was the quality good?

test quote

Streamline, what was the quality of the parts you ordered from LMC truck? I need to order pretty much all of the same items you listed. I need a tailgate, too. I think I may have found one at a salvage yard.

Keith_J, I checked the pressure the clips in the fuse box are applying to the tangs on the fuse; both sides pretty tight. Takes a bit of effort to pull the fuse out.

Both wires look free of damage and in good condition; have not looked in the loom yet. Continuity testing reveals both wires on coolant temp switch (green and PNK/BLK...the pink looks more tan to me) have closed circuits to ground each, when green fast idle solenoid and cold advance are plugged...

Hasdrubal: I put a 75 amp fuse in #17. Bad idea since it calls for a 20 and I could have ruined something, but it did illustrate to me that the issue is probably a wire shorting out, not some small gremlin. #17 is the one that blew. Warthog: I will check the wiring you suggest. Thank you...

Pursuant to Warthog's above post, I have begun trying to find the short/ground that keeps blowing fuse #17 in my 1986 M1009 (it blew a 75 amp one, too). Checking for continuity at the end of the fast idle solenoid, I find the circuit is closed. Confused, I checked it on a perfectly working 1984...