Search results

Testify Bus-Boy!

Hey y'all been awhile since I've posted. Sold my "Little Black Truck" Bobbed M35A2. Buyer didn't want the fitted-for-bobber fiberglass troop seats, headache rack, risers and bows (I don't have the cover). All afformetioned parts are painted flat black. Any idea what a fair price for the set...

My theory about the typical, short length of ownership is this... Most people buy M35's primarily because they find them to be "Big and Cool", which they are. However, especially in stock form, these trucks offer little-to-no comfort. Not too long after purchase, the romance fades as the buyer...

Very sorry to hear that... From what I remember, seems most agree that it's better to just replace the engine, as little bits may have been pumped through the oil and can find their way into other components, as well as the unknown mechanical stresses that other components may have been exposed...

Don't have experience with that one, I'd give the folks in the second link a call and ask them (gpopshop)

This is what you need for the Schwitzer "Whistler"... https://www.ebay.com/itm/MELETT-TURBOCHARGER-TURBO-REBUILD-REPAIR-KIT-FOR-SCHWITZER-3LD-UNIVERSAL-DAF/252442858328?epid=1575337808&hash=item3ac6c45358:g:UBMAAOSw9CJc73bh (Poland) or... https://gpopshop.com/product-3ldkit.html Used to get...

And, IIRC, if the Master Cylinder rod doesn't have enough free play travel, then it can't vent the pressure when the brakes are released, through that little hole, back into the reservoir.

Wow! that seems odd. If you've tried the spaced-out cap with all 6 bolts torqued to 75'lbs+ and it's not moving, maybe try tapping the bearing, where the nut makes contact, with a punch to see if that will loosen it up. I've seen on other vehicles where the brake shoes wore a trough into the...

Check my post again if that doesn't work, I added a few more ideas.

If you're sure the drum spins freely and isn't hanging up on the shoes (in which case you'd want to back the shoes off) try putting something down inside the spline cap, like a nut or two, so the nut(s) would hit the end of the spindle shaft before the cap flange contacted the drum, then use the...

It'll seem pretty obvious when you're doing it, but it's easier if you revove the lines from front (toward the L. fender) to back (toward the engine) and reinstall in reverse order. An 11/16 flare nut wrench can be very helpful to remove/install the line nuts without rounding them (I've got a...

I've seen lots of new parts that were bad right out of the box... Could y'all explain to me how a used wheel bearing that's properly packed, geometrically correct, shows no sign of heat, galling, etc., just "fails" all of a sudden? And how is the out-of-the-box, yet to be field tested, new...

Can't remember who said it, maybe M35 Tom, but the point was made that you've got to thoroughly PMCS the truck in a way that you lay your hands and eyes on every single inch of the truck, every light socket, every contact, every inch of line, check every bearing, seal, spring and fastener...

Kinda puttin the cart before the horse, with a bunch of vagueries... Multifuels, with their 22:1 compression ratio, are known to be hard on head gaskets, especially the old-style weep-tab type. Could just be you had an old set of gaskets that just reached the end of their lifecycle. Make sure to...

Im thinkin probly more like homo-sapien sushi, with an earthy, dry-rub seasoning

Sorry to hear that. While you've got everything apart it's much easier and a great time to do some not-so-expensive things like a flame-heater delete, modern starter, getting yourself a $100 pop-tester and tuning the injectors (link to the needed adapter here...

Looks just like mine did before I replaced the head gaskets, which is the same way lots and lots of otherwise perfectly functioning multifuels do. Taken from one of my recent posts... "This is often called "wetting the block". Multifuels are known for doing this, lotsa folks drive deuces that...

I figure them engineer folks call out specific torque values for a reason, I'd use the calculator to get the proper torque... https://belknaptools.com/extensions-calculator/

Negatory on the spray... From what I understand with the new-style gaskets, you want the surfaces clean and dry so the freshly mill-marked surface of the heads can "bite", emboss, and hold onto the gasket, and you want to get every spec of the old gasket, carbon, oil, etc, off every square...

Congrats! Enjoy! :)