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U need a boost gauge…. I have 15 psi gauge
I have a quality isspro pyrometer
My FdC is bypassed. I see 1050F -1100f max with pedal mashed at 2600 ish rpm
Boost 11 psi. Normally driving it stays around 800-850F. Takes a while of being on the pedal to climb to 1050f. I turned my screw...
1st gear and reverse gear are UN syncronized all others are. to down shift smoothly blip the throttle at the moment of shift to match engine rpm with road speed same with upshift but wait till rpms drop to next highest gear speed can use transfer case for low and high shifting...
I can turn the rack with both nuts
I was just wondering what the max thread was until it pretty much fell out. I deal with diesels all day. I would rather see egts on high side. Close to 1k to 1250f sustained. As the higher temps is not a problem at those temps but keeps everything clean...
Off topic. Chevy starters on gen 1 blocks fail because of heat. Normally when headers are added
for ur problem. Just go back to basics. Start where u have power/ voltage. Then check down stream till you find where y don’t have power
If u have full power to the starter and solenoid then...
this rack adjustment pic says .150" of threads showing is stock. for my own records im going over everything since putting the new 395
tires on i have adjusted my rack for more fuel when i first got it. i do have a boost and pyrometer even on heavy loads full throttle i see max 900 F...
I just found a thread from 2014. It’s all in there
Dished out I guy did by drilling and tapping a new hole for stem in dish. Flipping hubs is the only other way to get to valve stem if u don’t drill for stem in dish. I will probably flip hubs though
the rims are from 98g m35a2. The rears are turned around. Deep side out or dished out the way they are is the way 98g had them but he doesn’t remember ever putting air in them
as they are now. Hubs not flipped they seem almost perfect with the fronts this way. If I flip the hubs and...
I better add these are aluminum Mrap and the valve stem threads diameter is about 1/2”
So guessing these are non CTIS rims
So 1/2” hole for valve stem is in the center between where the 10 bolts are for adapters
Thanks. All my rims the stem is inside from the Bead lock bolts. The bead lock bolts just clear enough for rim to bolt on. Only way to get to stem is unbolt the wheel. They face inside. Do u have a pic ? I will try to get a pic of mine. Thanks
Guys running mrap’s what valve stem are u using on rears? . The little 1” straight one is completely blocked by drum/hub assembly
Thanks for any advice
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