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I believe you are speaking about the race that is in a "blind hole" and has no way to get behind the race to knock it out, the plug that gives you access to the CV axle bolt is the only thing on the other side of that race. if this is the race you are asking about I can tell you how I did mine...

rcamacho, I went with a 70 or 80 mil butyl rubber, foil backed mat. roll it on with a small wooden roller after cleaning the surfaces good and degreasing. I used a black colored foil for the floor since some will be exposed at places I don't have black carpet, which came out pretty decent. all...

Yesterday i finally finished the heat/sound deadening of the top and finished the headliner(ran out of adhesive so it slowed me down, not to mention it has been raining 40 days and 40 nights!!). re-installed the overhead console, came out pretty decent. hadn't started it in weeks batteries...

maybe this will give you the info you are looking for. TM 9-2320-280-20-2 Change 2 4 - 1 1 3 Section VI. BATTERY SYSTEM MAINTENANCE 4 - 7 1 . B AT T E RY SYSTEM MAINTENANCE TASK SUMMARY

quick check: look up which two pins on the STE/ICE cannon plug and hook up a multimeter to see real voltage values instead of colors on a guage, should determine any indication problems versus bigger problems. (need more voltage than the batteries put out to charge them.)

papakb, appreciate the input, although I was merely giving an experience I had to possibly aid Asmith29 with his issues. I also recommend a supplemental ground harness, I installed a manufactured one but yes, easily locally manned. when you rivet a bunch of crushed beer cans together corrosion...

I recently had some crazy light issues, blinkers barely noticeable intensity with headlights on, light in the turn signal was barely visible with headlights on, all kinds of things. what I found throughout all the troubleshooting was the blinker switch was a problem since almost everything runs...

same place I got mine a while back. Great bunch of guys there, glad I have them right up the road!!

Ground harness, can be locally made or purchased from a vendor. I believe there is a sticky or great info about it on here somewhere. One of the reasons for not going to the battery post (-) is the shunt. basically a resistor, but bypassing the shunt by going to the battery terminal, this...

Definitely add the ground harness. all components in a 12v voltage system like you have need to be grounded to the chassis and NOT straight to the negative battery terminal. also place a 12v system fuse/CB/disconnect at the battery to disconnect first, before pulling the ground off the...

Milcommoguy has some good info in there for you. just to add to it, the decision has to be made about the 12v convertor, whether you run it isolate or not. this meaning if the ground will be sharing the chassis of the truck or separate all together. the shunt (like previously stated) has a...

I'm sure I will be crossing that bridge someday, but so far so good!!

I would definitely go with the updated Nartron with the cancelling ring option. best thing ever made was that cancelling ring!!

UPDATE: did quite a bit of troubleshooting, slaved in headlight switches, flasher relays, set jumpers in cannon plugs to verify all lights and circuits. short story is the signal switch was the issue. took it apart, cleaned contacts with 1500 wet/dry paper, works great.

verified connections and hardware, also only had issues with the old flasher unit, worked fine after it was changed until now

Ok, so out of the blue this issue shows up. The truck has LED front and back, plate holder light, headlights, all instrument lighting (including tach) and replaced the signal indicating light with LED as well. the only incandescent left are the four marker lights. the flasher unit is a solid...

I would expect the rears to be hotter than the fronts if all things were equal. The fronts are hit with the cooler ambient air and the rears are getting cooled by the heat soaked air the HMMWV is putting off. We all know how hot the tunnel get while driving!! I know my rear hubs are hotter than...

I was about to suggest to look at the ring and pinion but you got there. had to change my rear, backing up in a turn sounded like the pinion was trying to crawl over the top of the ring gear. mine is and 87 and cant remember the ratio

Looks like there is no top horizontal land for the door seal to contact. looks like there is a drip edge on the top, and the B-pillar is contacting the door seal, but nothing on top of the door like the rag tops have that "bow" that runs forward and aft.