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Nope all came out just fine Thankfully
managed to get replacement u-bolts NOS from a couple different ebay listings and picked up the extra length Hex nuts off mcmaster
Also you mentioned some pretty hefty grease, plan is just to use mobilgrease xhp 223, since it's what I've been using on...
Makes sense, I did make an attempt to loosen them both with a jack under a box end wrench, and the 1/2" impact but didn't make any headway, so I figure it'll be fine one way or the other (y)
Well got it off and got the ubolt stubs pressed out, Thanks again! (maxed out the little 12t shop press and had to heat and beat to get them out hahahahaha)
going to hit up the local spring shop and see if they can make me up some leafs
So, noticed what seemed to be too much play in the rear trunnion bushings (springs a bit cockeyed in the perches on the axles)
no biggie, I knew the U-bolts needed to be changed as well, so I figure tackle it all at once no problemo
managed to get the nuts off the u-bolts but they were so...
So I got a 20k btu flame heater (I think it's off a m123) and control box for a song and dance, I was just wondering if it can be fed straight from the intank pump on the deuce or if higher pressure is needed?
Model 8420d24
Fsn 2540-933-8916
Thanks!
I thought the double hole helped with the multifuel portion of the engine, spraying some of the fuel into the cup on the piston to help it burn slower for fuels more viscous than diesel?
I believe this has been confirmed in a different post by peashooter way back when, (having trouble finding it again though) But just to verify only the A3 master cylinder needs the larger front wheel cylinders, the air force A2 master with the reservoir on the master uses the standard ones?
The use of hydraulic fuses like in airplanes has been discussed in another thread I believe. The main issue is the extremely small amount of fluid/flow rate
Looking at proportioning valves, at least here in the steel mill, out cheapest proportioning valves are in the 1k+ range, and nowhere near...
Quick question in regards to the rubber boot that fits around the end of the MC, Does it fit into the c-bore on the bracket or does it just stick into the bore of the MC in front of the C clip?
relatedly before I go finding a random MC boot and adapting it, is the boot a stock part or a custom...
Yeah, luckily that 3d model of the mount just got posted up, so starting to piece that bit together... (I work in a machine/weld shop so getting it fabbed should be essentially free) shifting the clutch pedal over, I didn't think about that one... shouldn't be beyond too far beyond moving a...
Those looks like thin wall bronze bushings? you should be able to get bushing stock at pretty close to the nominal OD spin it in the drillpress and sandpaper to size + a few thousandths, press them in and proceed to drill/hone as mentioned?
edit:And if you are feeling classy file in some...