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So I recently purchased the extended braided steel brake lines from ORD, without really giving much thought to their fitment as I've heard them recommended here. (Obviously dumb in retrospect). Anyway, after they arrived and I took a look at the lines I looked at the truck and realized that...

On the original issue, lately I fixed a few issues by cleaning the main ground that goes to the dash components, it's in the cab right above the parking brake. Before I cleaned I was getting odd issues like my gas gauge being off and parking brake light not turning on, as well as the wait light...

SOLVED: Well, it appears that old sensor connector was not giving a proper ground, or at the very least grounding intermittently. New sensor and connector and everything working as designed. Relay not staying on and GP's are not always going through a heating cycle after engine is already warm...

I appreciate the in depth explanation, I'm a complete novice to everything electrical so this is all new to me. I just went out and tried to test it at the sensor. The yellow wire at the sensor has a little crack woth exposed wire so I just took it from there and then a nearby ground...

Fair enough. The tm says the yellow wire at the gp card should measure 800 ohms, I'll try to test it from somewhere, but what am I looking for? Less resistance as the gps heat yes? On a side note....i just realised that the original sensor I put in had fricking red thread lock on it and I...

Well sounds like it may be that old temp sensor connector then. I only replaced the actual sensor, the connector isn't in great shape but it's also not terrible. I'll try to replace it. Anyone know of a replacement switch part number that will fit the original sensor? If I change to the new...

Well, problem persists but I might be narrowing it down... I took a look at the gp controller from antennaclimber while the truck was warming the plugs and after startup. All led lights are on and yellow goes out appropriately after wait light goes out. Red light, which indicates a closed relay...

Ok...slowly learning...thanks for all the patience. The plugs are the AC60g which if I'm not mistaken are self limiting. So I was able to test voltages and these were the numbers I got: At bus terminal for gp resistor: 24.6v At gp relay post from resistor wire when key in 'off...

So I know this might be a stupid question, although I'm sure most of what I ask here is lol, but how do I go about checking the voltage/output at the relay? I have a cheapo multimeter with needle prongs. I know the positive should go to whatever I'm testing, so the large post to check for...

Hmm...that would make sense. Only thing I can think of is that the voltmeter still shows like the gp Relay is stuck open after startup...but what would cause the relay to go bad with it being so new?

Well, bad battery...replaced it and voltmeter read properly and truck started up great. However, I let it run for a few minutes and noticed again that the gp relay was not cycling correctly, and I started to smell burning again. I let it run and finally saw smoke coming out of the resistor. Is...

Batteries are good and have always kept proper voltage, on or off, however I havnt gotten them load tested. The plugs were changed out a few weeks ago, but ill check if any of them gave out during this. The only concerning thing is whatever it is that's burning or melting.

Ok, upon further sniffing around, I'm pretty certain it's coming from one of the wires just above the gp resistor, looks like the wire that connects the 24v to the gp relay...im not sure if it's the heat from the resistor or the wire itself...I tried to see what the voltmeter is doing when...

Morning y'all. I have an m1028 to which I recently changed all the glow plugs (A.C. 60g), gp relay, and controller card and was getting perfect effortless starts. Today I started up the truck as usual and shut it off. A little later I went to start it up again and saw that the voltmeter dropped...

Well, I feel incredibly lucky that none of my plugs were stuck. All where swollen to some extent and one mushroomed up but came out with a very slight tug. New plugs are in and the truck seems to be going through the startup procedure properly now, truck was just slightly warm from changing...

No but the post had veeery bad wear marks, probably because the door might be misaligned somewhat, even though it doesn't appear to be, and there's no play at the hinge.

Do these pex tubes come in different hardness levels? The ones I installed only a few weeks ago started to show the same wear marks that the original studs were showing. I have to keep rotating the pex in order to give the latch a fresh surface.

I used a NAPA ST85 which I read here was a good replacement.

Progress! After getting help from a friend and listening to the gp relay, it didn't sound like it was clicking on, replaced it and now and I can hear it doing it's thing and the wait light runs it's cycle and shuts off. Truck still had a rough start after the light went off though, so I may have...

Fair enough fair enough hah. And yeah by colder day I meant like 70...as opposed to 90.. but yeah I'll be testing and I'll report back.