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This was more of a personal electrical engineering challenge that I wanted to see if I could accomplish, stupid or not. Wanted to mirror it off of more over-the-road commercial electrical systems. A good DC to DC transformer doesn't cost an arm and a leg anymore, either.
I cooked up this...
Really just aiming for simplicity, isolating and clearing out wires out of the charging system and engine bay.
Now I'm wondering if I could use the existing resistors (so long as they're not shot) to run everything that's 12v in the truck and it would probably be easier on the batteries.
What...
I'd have to check and see if that is a 12v draw or 24v draw more in-depth. My surface look at the glow plug circuit diagram leads me to believe that it's 12v because it's "behind" the resistors on the circuit. In which case, I would probably get a second step down transformer dedicated to the...
Interesting, I think I might be able to make something like that work. Just isolate the charging and starting circuit to the bus bars and one-wire it to a step down transformer. There's a couple 24v to 12 transformers on Amazon that say they're rated for up to 100A peak, so I could probably get...
Evening all, relatively new poster and lurker here and, like many other members here, I'm having some issues with the electrical systems on my M1031. I've chowdered up the stator in my P/S 27si alternator and am waiting for a "new" alternator to come in from the parts store so I can rip the...
Pretty sure the 205 would have been stock to your truck. I know I've got the 208 with the PTO provisioning, but I can't remember if the 208 w/o PTO was stock. The Lube Order states 205 and 208, so I think the 1009s would have had the 205. I'm a 1031 guy, so I don't have much weigh in about this...
You may also want to remove the diodes on the back of the fuse panel if those have not already been nipped. Once those fail, the flashers will stick on causing more issues as well. Unless you plan on running mil radios in your CUCV, then replacing those would probably be best.
So, this is kind of a tricky one. I wouldn't say it's necessarily a bad idea, but it's a specific use case, really. Not to negate or insult your buddy's knowledge and experiences with this, just providing my own based off what I've done with my trucks.
75w-140 is a good recommendation for gear...
Hell, I'd send it to you for free if you want it. If it goes to someone that can use it, that's all that matters to me. Sometimes you just gotta pay it forward.
No worries, we're all here to help. Speaking of helping, can I interest you in a spare hub for your dually rear axle? I ordered a replacement one for my 1031 not knowing my hubs were the single rears instead of the duals. I know it won't fit on my truck, but if it can help you out, I can send it...
At that point you're just wasting money. Since the Lucas already meets the requirements for the LSD clutch packs, you won't be gaining anything by adding it to gear oil that already covers it. Just make sure that it specifically states that it meets those requirements before you dump the old out...
There's a Dorman HELP! shim pack available from AutoZone that should help you out. What you'll want to do is remove the bottom inspection cover for the transmission bell housing to the bottom of the engine, add your shim pack starting around about 70 thousandths of an inch to see where your...
I personally wouldn't mix GM and Ford products like that just because I know their fluid specs and requirements for fluids don't match and certainly don't mix well, so that knocks Motorcraft off the list from me. The Oreillys has one bottle available that's the perfect amount for a change so...
Yes, the red is supposed to be 24v, the two smaller ones pass 12v to close the connection to the two larger terminals to pass 24v through to the starter solenoid.
So, the LO does not really cover this, but your front Dana 60 differential is a limited slip diff with clutch plates in the carrier. Some modern age fluids have the specs covered for limited slip differentials, but not all of them do. Your rear axle/diff should be a detroit locker and thus does...
I think I remember reading about connecting a ground to that bus bar when installing the arctic heater kit(maybe, maybe not) on a CUCV in the -20, but I was just futzing around through the manual trying to figure out some brake stuff so I wasn't particularly interested in that at the time. Short...
At this point, I don't think shooting the parts cannon at it is the right thing to do without a bit more diagnostic work. Can you check the starter itself with a multimeter, placing the red probe on the big terminal that leads to the bus bars on the firewall and the neg probe on the case of the...
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