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Are the ones you have the dual voltage version? If so let me know shipping to Roanoke Virginia 24019 and how to pay.

To get the truck running I will most likely buy a regulator from 86humv, but I am going to try to remove the potting compound on mine.

Yes, I understand there is more than an alternator and starter. I made a list a few years ago for an '86 M998 I was rebuilding, no clue where it is now.

Pulled the regulator today and cooked it. Took les than 10 minutes to dig down this far.

Thanks may end up buying one.

At the going rate for a tested/known good regulator I can buy a 12vdc alternator and starter. I know there is a lot more to it but right now I am weighing my options

Yep batteries running voltage is 32. I guess it is time to find an inexpensive regulator or start looking at converting to 12v

Finally, I have a chance today to check some voltages. Key on engine not running +14 V 13.5vdc AC 0vdc Ign 24.5vdc Engine running 14 V 17vdc AC 13vdc Ign 32vdc I've went through the wiring and haven't found anything obvious yet. Tested the alternator and regulator...

Quick back story.... Moving the batteries under the hood, they are still sitting/ hooked up in the passenger side. Military dash mount has been removed. Gauges, run/start switch, lights switch all are hanging loose. Started the truck the other day and the charger is maxed out. I know I either...

Yes, I was planning on rewiring the WTS with a permanent ground and using the existing wire from Pin E to supply the voltage. If the solenoid were to weld closed I would have an indicator. It's just me expecting the worst possible outcome.

Finishing up a manual glow plug controller per your diagrams/ parts list and have a question. The dash side connector Pin E will have +24V on it going to the Wait to Start light. I am thinking of replacing the wire to the coil side of the solenoids and placing the wire from Pin E to the glow...