1088 log truck build.

[1088logtruck]

I just thought I'd share some of the progress I've made on this project.
Another more to go. But just reorganizing the stuff behind the cab took a ton of time.
I'm at week 4 of a 25week wait on the pto I ordered so plenty of time left to finish.
I also bought a 25ft 20 ton tag trailer to add removable bunks to and pull behind. Between the truck and trailer it'll fit a full log load no problem.

 

[coachgeo]

I just thought I'd share some of the progress I've made on this project.
Another more to go. But just reorganizing the stuff behind the cab took a ton of time.
I'm at week 4 of a 25week wait on the pto I ordered so plenty of time left to finish.
I also bought a 25ft 20 ton tag trailer to add removable bunks to and pull behind. Between the truck and trailer it'll fit a full log load no problem.

In case you didnt keep the hose from air cleaner to exhaust.. maybe you did... but just in case you didnt

Being a Log Truck IMHO you want to re- incorporate the indented piece of the tail pipe and its hose to the air cleaner as part of your exhaust. That indented tail pipe section creates a venturi vacuum affect. That vacuum is used to in coordination with a portion of the air cleaner that contains many cyclonic air purifiers.... this section pre-cleans the air of larger particles and pulls them into and out the exhaust. You could put something like a bit of a P trap for this material the air cyclonic feature sucked out into your exhaust tube. Put a Y in your exhaust just after P that has screw off cap. Guess it should sit just before the Stack. Screw off cap you put there; run truck for short while to blow out the stuff that collected in the P Trap. Put it back on to keep sound more manageable.

Only mention the P trap with clean out as a mod, cause not sure the exhaust could blow the stuff removed by the cyclonic feature; up out a vertical stack that well. Or just go back to stock exhaust design and not worry about P Trap, a way to clean it out etc.

most folk don't really need that cyclonic magic of the air cleaner..... your in a different boat and IMHO would be wise to keep that function...

 

[Third From Texas]

More details on that vertical stack?

Daddy likez....daddy needz

 

[1088logtruck]

Ya I see what you mean about the precleaner design and it really shouldn't be a problem. Our chipper has a 8.3 Cummins and has a filter half the size and is in the dustiest environment any of my equipment will see and it needs to be cleaned often but that's normal. They really built thses things to go though like a full on sand storm I'd think...

I mover around most of the stuff back there to get the headache rack as far foreword as possible without chopping the cab up.

And the exhaust I wanted to keep simple and out of the way so I made a short flex pipe with 2 vband flanges that sends the exhaust into the big box they used to lift it off of but I capped it right where I piped it in so it only goes out the pass side. Then made a real tight 90 piece to another vband and the stack. Welded the bolt holes closed too.

 

[chucky]

More details on that vertical stack?

Daddy likez....daddy needz

Looks like he made the airlift beam his square exhaust pipe then mounted the stack on the airlift beam ! You used to see alot of that stuff in the 70s /80s when cabovers started running straights instead of mufflers behind the cab .

 

[1088logtruck]

Looks like he made the airlift beam his square exhaust pipe then mounted the stack on the airlift beam ! You used to see alot of that stuff in the 70s /80s when cabovers started running straights instead of mufflers behind the cab .

Ya that's exactly what I did just capped the air lift tube off toward the pass side by putting a plate in thru the hole I cut to run the exhaust into the air lift tube. And moved lots of hoses and wires to avoid the heat. I still have to cut my mount for the hyd pump off and move that away from the exhaust a little more.

 

[chucky]

Ya that's exactly what I did just capped the air lift tube off toward the pass side by putting a plate in thru the hole I cut to run the exhaust into the air lift tube. And moved lots of hoses and wires to avoid the heat. I still have to cut my mount for the hyd pump off and move that away from the exhaust a little more.

You shouldnt have to move more than an inch or 2 of space to keep it from melting anything if the tube is hot your moving with air moving by everything to stay cool unless youve got the pump opened up and pouring the fuel to the motor cranking the pyrometer up to nuclear .

 

[1088logtruck]

Well I did turn the fuel screw 1/4 turn or so and advance timing a touch and the Westgate line is pinched. I've seen this setup work really well and give a little pep to a 3116 in a gmc my buddy had. I am putting pyro boost and trans gauges as a percaution.
As this is a log truck it'll see alot of time running at 1200-1800rpm sitting in one spot, feeding a chipper, loading/unloading truck/trailer with wood, or feeding a firewood processor.
During those times is when I worry about the heat melting something. Better safe then sorry I can take the 30min to cut that mount back off and extend it a few inches then I won't have to worry at all.
Idk how delicate to heat the military air over hydraulic pump thing is either

 

[coachgeo]

..... During those times is when I worry about the heat melting something. Better safe then sorry I can take the 30min to cut that mount back off and extend it a few inches then I won't have to worry at all.
Idk how delicate to heat the military air over hydraulic pump thing is either

cut what mount off and move back few inches??

 

[1088logtruck]

It's probably only 1 inch off it now so I'm thinking 4 inches is probably good. And going to throw some heat tape around the pump

 

[1088logtruck]

The mount for the air over hydraulic pump that I have mounted to the front of the air lift tube that the exhaust is ran through.

 

[1088logtruck]

Got the gauges in and wired.

Wired up a manual switch for the trans cooler fans and a separate 30a relay fuse and switch to energize accessory power.

Also anyone wanting to run regular sized switches I was able to find some adapter plates that work well. I guess they are for a polaris rzr but I just searched carling switch adapter to find them