1953 M35 cab

[CHM]

The M35 I just bought has a pretty rough cab and windshield. It comes with an almost rust free cab and windshield for her. How much of a pain is it to actually remove the old one and put the new one in. I guess the biggest problem is lifting the old one off and putting the new one on. I also have the front section of the bed rusting out. It is just the little flat pieces in between the square tubing sections of the bed sides.

 

[Dead pilot]

I'm doing this same thing with my M36
This TM will help ya out TM 9-2320-209-34-2-2
There's a lot it to. Everything attached to firewall has to come off. Fenders and hood have to come off. Then ya have to deal with the steering column. Most of my fasteners were rusted pretty bad. So I would soak everything is some kinda penetrating oil.
The lifting of it really isnt too bad once its empty but I had access to material handling crane so it made it easy for me.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[SETOYOTA]

I swapped a cab on my 53 m108. Which is m35 crane truck. Bunch of pics here. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?147849-M108-deuce-wrecker-engine-swap
Not much to swapping a cab. The biggest problem was dealing with the steering box.

 

[CHM]

Thanks. Could you possibly cut the shaft then weld a sleeve over it and then drill and bolt it as well to put it back k together if it is a problem?

 

[SETOYOTA]

Thanks. Could you possibly cut the shaft then weld a sleeve over it and then drill and bolt it as well to put it back k together if it is a problem?

No. I would not do that. Just remove the steering box . You can also lift the cab over the steering coloumn if you have something that can lift that high

 

[kubotaman]

I removed the cab from my USMC M813A1 over the summer has part of the process of tearing it down. Now while I did not have to deal with the steering box because it has a 2 piece steering column, everything else is the same. I removed everything attached to the firewall on the exterior and I removed all wiring from the cab. This included removing the dash and gauges but I did leave all of the fittings on the inside of the firewall, all of those will have to be moved to the new cab eventually however.

To make it easier to lift, I stripped it out further than I had to. I removed the windshield, top, drivers door, seats, and tunnel covers. Looking back, I should of removed the passenger door because it make lifting it off dicey (should of seen it come but hindsight it 20/20) but the hinge was too mangled. You will have to remove the T case/PTO handles because they are bolted to the cab. I unbolted mine as a set directly from the cab crossmember.

Watch your speedometer cable, I forgot mine was on and only realized it was still attached to the cab when the cab was in the air. Also, do not forget your fuel tank breather lines which maybe bolted to the bottom of the cab. If your truck has a fording kit like mine did (USMC truck), you will have to check all of the other breather lines as well. If your truck has a slave cable, remember the ground which is bolted to the frame. I think that is about it. I will try to post some photos this weekend.

 

[SETOYOTA]

On a deuce the high and low lever and the pto lever will slide out of the bottom of the cab. It’s not a big job if you have something to lift it with.

 

[CHM]

I have a garage she will be stored in with an interior height of 12 ft 8 in then another four feet or so to the top the roof. Not certain if that will be high enough or not. If not then not really.

 

[dmetalmiki]

Good luck with the transfer, Post pictures with a write up with pointers as you do the job.
We will be following your progress, as we have a member of our group with a deuce to do as well.

 

[SETOYOTA]

Go ahead and remove the steering box. It’s not a hard job. Get a pitman arm puller at the parts store maybe $20 . You will also need to remove the steering wheel as well. You can get a puller but I simply removed the nut and used a rubber mallet to pop it off. A few taps on the back side and it popped off.

your going to have the front clip off the truck already. What is the condition of your replacement cab? age? Does it have a wiring harness in it?

The box most likely needs rebuilding anyway.

 

[CHM]

It has the wiring harness. I have not completely flipped it over to check the bottom but it look like a little surface rust in a couple spots but no other rust. Not certain what year it is off of but believe it is about a 53 like the truck is. Did they change very much over the years?

 

[SETOYOTA]

No difference If it’s newer the wiring is a little different

 

[CHM]

Neither of the windows would roll up in the truck and it is supposed to be fairly cold when I pick her up. I went down to work on her and one window was completely out and on the seat and the other one was stuck down inside the door. I noticed that one of the window regulators was missing but found two spares in the bed of the truck and put it back together. I go it where both windows will roll up but both windows are missing the little plastic rollers and clips that make sure the prongs stay in place and on the driver's side window one of the little clips that are attached to the window frame to keep the rollers in place fell off. I am a little nervous to try to weld that close to the glass and where would one buy those plastic rollers and clips that go on them. Any ideas on either would be appreciated.