1984 M1028 CUCV – parts/scrap or beater truck?

[m726]

Well I’ve been looking for a set of CUCV axles for a LONG term M715 project, finally found a decent deal, they just happen to have a complete truck attached to them…

Now the question is: fix the CUCV up enough to use as a beater for a couple years or is it too many small things and to just part it out and scrap the rest? (the M715 project isn’t going to start for a couple more years anyway)

I currently don’t have a truck and have been looking for something for occasional use like dump and scrap runs. Body and interior have been beat. Someone attacked the wheel wells (1 side) with a hammer and a sheet metal nibbler, rockers were rusty and they were just cut out. Runs down the highway and tracks ok, but has death wobble under hard braking, last owner drove it daily last winter w/35” tires and drove it to me a 30+ min drive…

Positives:
- relatively solid, 39k miles, starts easy, runs, drives, 4wheel works, sort of stops
- rebuilt injection pump
- new starter w/dog relay switch (done in a ghetto fashion)
- newish exhaust

Things that would need to be fixed to put on the road:
- turn signals, side marker lights, temp/oil press gauge, horn
- rear brakes/parking brakes
- death wobble under hard breaking
- fuel tank leak (bottom of tank)
- tires - ok for in town but old/cracked, I have 3-33” or 4-37” tires i can use
- glass in doors or full doors
- each rear spring back has a few broken leafs

What is the engine, trans and transfer case worth? That’s probably the only big item to re-sell if I pull the axles…

 

[cucvrus]

That looks like a parts truck to me. if it was inexpensive enough I would part it out. I have parted out really nice trucks already because of paperwork missing and not being able to get any title for them. A real nice 10K M1028 back in 1995. I still have the rust free cab and bed floor in my barn. I parted out about 10 trucks and 25+ M1009's over the years. Sad when I look back but it happens.

 

[reaper556]

Just my honest opinion I would stop while I'm ahead if you got a decent deal on the axles. To try and make it road and use worthy for a couple of years could turn into a never ending money pit with what you describe.

I regularly see the transmissions and t-cases selling for a couple hundred each. I wouldn't expect the engine to fetch more than around $600 ish

 

[richingalveston]

engine with fairly new ip should bring 800 to 1200 depending on if you are selling all brackets belts hoses, etc. or just the long block.

transfer case = 150 to 200
tranny = 150 to 400
the front bumper and brush guard with all brackets 300 to 500 depending on condition
rear bumber and brackets 100 to 300

The stock wheels can bring $50 each.
all the military parts will bring a little cash.

I would not put money into something that bad. from the list you gave you will spend a lot and the truck will never be worth more than it is right now. It will take some time to sell the parts so I would do that and buy something much newer and better condition for a spare work truck.

Don't mess up your good deal trying to save something that should not be saved. Give it a decent funeral and put the funds into your new project.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I view things differently. Each of the problems you described could be patched up in short order. Looks like a perfect truck for dump runs and such. I would establish a hard line in the sand on any costly repairs and an overall budget. Once a single item exceeds that or a series of failures reaches that, park it and bone it out as you planned I've driven much worse as a DD for years.

 

[Mainsail]

Death wobble is different than shuddering during braking. The shudder when braking is almost always due to warped disks, and easily repaired with new ones. Don't let that issue scare you off.

I would probably get a license plate for it and use it as you said; for a beater to make dump runs or tote lumber home from the store. I already have two jeeps and the M1009 so I would probably pass on it for that use, but if I didn't already have the M1009 that's what I'd do.

 

[kubotaman]

Nice fender job

What I would do is this: Evaluate how much you could REALISTICALLY make by parking out the truck (Not too low so that you are giving away parts, but not to high so you are sitting on parts forever). Then draw the line in the sand that you will not spend any more money beyond that. For example, you get the truck for $1500. You think you can realistically part it out for $2000, don't spend more than $2000 on it. You won't make much if any money, but atleast you have a *chance* of breaking even if all goes to plan (it never does).

 

[Chaski]

Seems like price parts vary a lot by region. Where I live there are 73-87 GM's are everywhere. That NP208 would be $80-150. EDIT... That thing should have a 205 right? A 32 spline input 205 would fetch $200-400. The TH400 would be $100-300. The 6.2 engine would be $100-600.

Engine value would be based on the odometer reading, video of it running and compression check.

 

[m726]

Thanks for all the advice!

I'm torn part of me wants to put some work into it use it as a beater, but there's potentially a lot of little gremlins hiding in there and I might be better off just putting that money toward my M715 or a better truck...
Tomorrow i'm going to look it over better and make a quick spreadsheet on cost of repairs/licensing vs. parting it out

It's an aluminum transfer-case on it so a NP208

Here's a couple more pictures to give you an idea of interior and engine bay.

The truck does look better than some of the rusty trucks driving around Tioga county here

 

[fitz]

This is a tough one.
As others have said, I've parted out nicer trucks in the past.
That being said, most of the value of a parted out CUCV (excluding M1009's) is in the axles. The Dana 60/14 bolt. Combo sells for $2000 here in Massachusetts.
Allot of the work this truck needs involves the axles (brakes, parking brake, & death wobble). So you will have to spend that money sooner or later anyway if your using the axles on your next project.
Do you have state vehicle inspections in your area? Will it pass with the rough body.

 

[cucvrus]

My choice a driving running CUCV vs an M715. I would go CUCV all day long. That is a hands down better choice IMHO. You can pick up a take off bed for $500. I just sold a nice one that was rust free. Same goes for the other body parts. They are around if you look. You will pay a premium for nice parts. I would always expect to. But you could rebuild that M1028 with a budget on parts and you do the labor.This was my M1028 A1 DUDE that was used hard logging for 19 years and retired at 173 K. All stock never molested not even a radio was added. We drove it to deliver it from Pennsylvania to Connecticut. Right thru New York city on the thru way. 75 - 80 the whole trip. It is living large and completely rebuilt in a big mansion in Connecticut. I will let the new owner share a few pictures if he wishes to do so. But That would be my choice between the 2. CUCV much more comfortable and versatile. Good Luck. Check the frame real close at the front rear axle spring mounts behind the fuel tank. that is a bad spot on these older GM trucks. I am finding more rust then I wish at this late point.

 

[rchalmers3]

I think you answered your own question: The M715 is a long term project and you would like a beater/hauler for the short term.

So you now have two projects. I suggest you increase your budget and/or allocate your existing hobby budget accordingly.

We all share the same disease and the financial symptoms. I guess the final authority is the size of the yard you have in determining how large your OD collection becomes!

Rick

 

[Tinstar]

While that one looks really rough, it also looks like it can be saved.
New bed is easy. Fuel tank too. Lots of electrical to fix.
Unless this one is a total rust bucket, it looks worth fixing.
Lots of rust..... Part it out

Of course, it all depends on budget.
Almost anything is fixable if you throw enough money at it.

These are great trucks.
Just a great fun truck to drive.

If you choose to save it, you won't regret it.

 

[reaper556]

Thanks for all the advice!

I'm torn part of me wants to put some work into it use it as a beater, but there's potentially a lot of little gremlins hiding in there and I might be better off just putting that money toward my M715 or a better truck...

The little hidden gremlins are what add up fast

I think you answered your own question: The M715 is a long term project and you would like a beater/hauler for the short term.

So you now have two projects. I suggest you increase your budget and/or allocate your existing hobby budget accordingly.

We all share the same disease and the financial symptoms. I guess the final authority is the size of the yard you have in determining how large your OD collection becomes!

Rick

like he said you now have another project on your hands. I currently have 3 and its almost too much with the little gremlins already mentioned

 

[cucvrus]

Just fix all 3 the same way the way they were originally built OEM and they will all work fine. I seldom have any issues and when I do I know if need be the manuals are there. I know most issues with out reading but still why change a design that has lasted 30 years when all it really needs is a a part of a repair. Seems to work for me and I actively maintain 20+ CUCV trucks. Mine here and on the road with family, friends and customers. Somethings it pays to have professionally rebuilt. IMHO starters, alternators and injection pumps are among them things. I see the equipment they have to do this and the fine tuning they do to make it right. IMHO just putting in replacement parts on these items is band-aiding them temporarily at best. I see guys rebuild engines/transmissions in the dirt and they are at it for weeks. Short time later more engine and transmission troubles for them. i put my money down where it counts. Do what I can if I can. And pay a professional to do the rest. I can do the installs. I can build engines but not do the machine work. Transmissions I know nothing about. There is lot of fine tuning in the smaller electrical items I mentioned. Good Luck and just make a goal everyday and meet the goal 3 fold. You will be done by Christmas. Then it can be a very CUCV Holiday in Texas.

 

[reaper556]

Just fix all 3 the same way the way they were originally built OEM and they will all work fine. I seldom have any issues and when I do I know if need be the manuals are there. I know most issues with out reading but still why change a design that has lasted 30 years when all it really needs is a a part of a repair. Seems to work for me and I actively maintain 20+ CUCV trucks. Mine here and on the road with family, friends and customers. Somethings it pays to have professionally rebuilt. IMHO starters, alternators and injection pumps are among them things. I see the equipment they have to do this and the fine tuning they do to make it right. IMHO just putting in replacement parts on these items is band-aiding them temporarily at best. I see guys rebuild engines/transmissions in the dirt and they are at it for weeks. Short time later more engine and transmission troubles for them. i put my money down where it counts. Do what I can if I can. And pay a professional to do the rest. I can do the installs. I can build engines but not do the machine work. Transmissions I know nothing about. There is lot of fine tuning in the smaller electrical items I mentioned. Good Luck and just make a goal everyday and meet the goal 3 fold. You will be done by Christmas. Then it can be a very CUCV Holiday in Texas.

I agree totally. Thankfully my cucv's are hobbies for me and not daily drivers so as funds and time permits and I can pull them out of the garage and work on them at leisure and insure they are done right.