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1985 m1008

Jeepbeav

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Help please!
I have purchased a 1985 M1008. Story was that it needed a lift pump... Also had been running bio diesel and gummed things up. I am learning a lot from this site I have researched lots of posts and used many of the NAPA part numbers recommended to get where I am.

Where I was.
Lift pump replaced. No start
glow plug solenoid replaced. No start.
Top cover of injection pump removed.... Starts!!!!
bad fuel shut off solenoid.... Thanks to stanadyne I put a new one in. No start.
Pulled check valve. STarts knocked ball out of check valve starts runs.
Ordered new check valve. Runs.
Lost power up a hill. Replaced fuel filter rectangle on firewall. blew the check valve out runs but dies every now and then. Bypassed fuel filter and turned the slow idle solenoid screw a turn and it runs great. 100 miles
runs out of fuel drive for another 100 miles. Replaced by passed filter set up with napa spin on water separator filter. Drives great. Next morning. I drive 13 miles acts sluggish and now I can't get it to run. It will crack off but not stay running. I replaced the lift pump again. Still wont start. Blew the lines out. Checked the check valve. Bypassed the filter. Still wont run. I have only had it since the end of July and love it when it drives. Please help. It has new batteries too.
 

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Recovry4x4

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If the check valve in the return fitting is clogging up, odds are good that you have a going, going, gone injection pump. You can put a hundred lift pumps and filters on it but it's not going to cure the problem. Remove the return fitting and blow it out, if it runs, look for an IP.
 

Jeepbeav

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It has 90,000 miles. If I pull the top cover off of the IP and put fuel in it will that tell me if the IP is good or bad?
 

Warthog

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When you pull the cover off are there black specs in the fuel?

The issue with the Stanadyne DB2 injector pump is that there is a rubber ring inside the pump the deteriorates over the years. It controls the internal governor. When it dies it also it plugs the return line check valve. It isn't the miles but the years that makes it die.

From the TM 9-2320-289-34P Tech manual, it is item number 81, figure 15

A pump rebuild runs between $400-$500.


Another thing to consider is the Bio-Fuel. Bio-fuel likes to clean all the gunk out of the system. For the last 27 years there is just a "little" gunk built up in all the fuel line, fuel tank, injector pump, etc.

Bio gives you a nice clean system, but that gunk has to go some where. Usually the filters.
 
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Jeepbeav

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I will check when I get home tonight. I beleive there was debri in the pool of fuel before but it was more uf a Tarnish color fleck. I kind of attributed it to the Bad Bio Diesel Plaque that made it stop running in the first place (seller Claim). But if it is bad will it run with that cover off and fuel there?
 

Warthog

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If you have debri in the fuel bowl, then more than likely it is time for an IP rrebuild.

It might will kind of run, but not very well.
 

Jeepbeav

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Ok thanks I will try tonight. Not afraid of a rebuild. Just don't want to rebuild it then find out it is a clog in fuel tank
 

Jeepbeav

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Ok with top cover off IP and spin on filter inline there were lots of bubbles at first but started running real smooth. I proceeded to give it pedal and it reved like it should. Immediate throttle response back to a lug lug at idle. I did not blow the check valve out. When I went to put cover on it choked out and died. So I am guessing I need to blow out the check valve and run it for a while? I really want to believe it is plaque breaking loose vs the injection pump. There was no debri whatsoever in the bowl beneath the cover. I know I am grasping at straws and possibly delaying the obvious, but it runs sooooo good I would think the Ip failure would have worse symptoms.
 

Jeepbeav

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What does the other Solenoid in the IP Top cover do? It just barely moved last time. I am thinking that it ground it self against the cover itself for cold start?
 

tstone

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Ever since diesel fuel was changed over to ultra low sulfur, the lubrication qualities of the fuel have been greatly diminished. Your IP was designed to be lubricated by the old type of fuel, if you install a new or rebuilt pump add light ( new transmission or hydraulic) oil or 2 stroke oil to the fuel. I had the exact same issue with one of my 1009's and when I replaced the pump I always add lubricant to the fuel to prolong the life of the IP. Newer vehicles that have a common rail or electric injectors do not have this issue as they were designed to run on the ultra low sulfur fuels. I also add oil to any of my older vehicles that have a plunger type IP including gen sets, 2 1/2 ton and 5 ton trucks. Hope this helps.

Tom
 

usmcpatriot

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Did not see it mentioned, drop the tank, check and/or replace the sender your sock may be filthy, and clean your tank. Before I spend cash for a new or rebuilt IP, I'd do the basics. Start from the tank and work your way to the IP. Thats what I did, and my 1008 is humming!
 

Jeepbeav

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I will do it, but not sure it will help except prevent debri getting to the next IP. The truck will sit and run all day with the top cover off of the IP so It is getting fuel somehow. But it is something I want to check. Unless it is a two way pressure regulation thing that I am not familiar with ie taking cover off actually reduces pressure or increases pressure in the tank to help it run?

I really dont want to but I am fairly certain that I can put the old check valve in that does not have the glass ball in it and run it without issues till the IP finally lets go due to not enough pressure? It is the nightmares of hearing about it sticking in a wide open fashion that scares me!
 

Jeepbeav

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Ok cleaned the check valve and this is what came out. Looked like packed saw dust. Wish I had taken a picture first of the ip side it was almost yellow. This is of course running the truck with the filter bypassed. Hope to drop the tank tomorrow And see what kind of gunk is in there.
 

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