- 8,281
- 646
- 113
- Location
- Corpus Christi, TX
****** CARNAC no longer has access to the military info ****** this is new thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?149710-2016-VIN-INFO-Thread-Please-Read
Sure hope we get donations for the cause or this could be a very short year.
READ THE RULES BEFORE YOU DO SOMETHING STUPID!!!!! So if you fail to read and abide by the rules and I call you an idiot, don't whine about it, you'll still be an idiot for not reading the rules.
Rule 1. Anyone letting others know about VIN INFO, ensure you tell them to USE THE THREAD and not to PM me!!!!!!
Rule 2. Don't PM me to do your VIN INFO unless you want me to get real upset.
Rule 3. My pet peave is putting I (letter india) and O (letter oscar) in your VIN or Registration Number. The military only uses 1 (number one) and 0 (number zero). Flub this and be sent back to the read this. (It's a personal psychological problem that drives me nuts). Actually it gives back a no info if you use the letters instead of the numbers. That makes me do a second search after having to manually change the information you provided.
------------VERY IMPORTANT: YOU MAY THINK IT IS A O (letter Oscar) BUT IT IS A ZERO; YOU MAY THINK IT IS AN I (letter India) but it is a One. SCREW THIS UP AND I MAKE YOU FEEL STUPID, DON'T WHINE ABOUT IT. THAT'LL JUST MAKE ME WANT TO HARRASS YOU MORE. If you do, you may think you're right but you're wrong. You may swear up and down that is what is on the data plate but you're still wrong.
Rule 4. I provide the info that I have/can. The vin info is based on data inputs from the military and if the soldier inputting the information fat fingered the info, then your info will also show that error. You get what I find. The database started around 1971 so the vehicle had to be in service and MORE IMPORTANTLY entered into the database since then. Many units, especially the reserves or national guard, did not start registering their vehicles electronically until many years later. So it's not just a matter of the vehicle being in service in 1971 but had to be in a unit that did electronic registration before the vehicle was surplus. Some units didn't begin electronic registration until well into the 1980s. This explains why it is hit or miss.
Rule 5. The more info you provide the quicker I can find your vehicle. Provide as much of the following as possible:
a. Serial Number (VIN number) ------without dashes or spaces (0123456789 correct, 0123-456789 incorrect)
b. Registration Number -----also without dashes and do not use the letter O (Oscar) use 0 (zero) and don't use letter I (india) use number 1 (one).
c. NSN without dashes -----uh, one more time, without dashes
d. Where you bought it
e. Bumper numbers if you can legibly read them
Rule 6. IF YOU DON'T KNOW THE NSN, PLEASE LOOK IT UP ON GOOGLE!!!!!! I don't know the NSN for an M151 or M38 or most others. A M35A2 or M35A2 w/w, or all the CUCV series, yes, I know those off the top of my head. Others NO.
Rule 7. Try the top secret website to find out information about the unit. Don't tell anyone but the top secret website is GOOGLE. So when you get the unit and/or are looking for bumper numbers, try them first.
Rule 8. Don't ask where I get the info from, it doesn't matter and you cannot have access so don't ask.
Rule 9. I wait until I get a bunch of these. Another pet peeve is I have 2 or 3 to do after several weeks I finally get the info and then someone chimes in 5 minutes later wanting me to do theirs. Look, if you want me to run the numbers, get them in now. I have other things I do in life besides this.
Rule 10. If I give you info, please make a donation IF and ONLY IF you are capable of doing so and then give what you can, when you can. I know a lot of folks are out of work and short on cash. No problem, I have no tracking mechanism to show who gives and who doesn't. But if you can give, GIVE. Our performance in helping this charity has almost led me to stop doing this thread. VERY embarrassing for out of over 1000 vehicles I've provided info for, we have credit for just over $1000. Try to give a minimum of $15 per vin provided.
Rule 11. My standard disclaimer. I get absolutely no money for any donation. I do this for free and my only gain is the simple fact that your donation goes to a good cause and support the hobby and for being a nice guy which I hope will bring karma.
Rule 12. This thread is intended for the private collector and not for businesses that buy and sell large quantities. If you have one or two vehicles, no problem. If you have a bunch, we need to talk (not saying I won't do it but we need to talk on a PM before you post).
Rule 13. I can only do Army vehicles. I cannot do USMC, USN, USAF, or USCG. I can do all types of vehicles to include trailers and generators; however, there is only about a 40% chance a specific trailer and generator are in the database.
Rule 14. Your vehicle manufacturer will come back as a CAGE CODE; not as a company name. To translate the CAGE Code to a name, do a websearch for BINCS. Currently their website is the following https://www.logisticsinformationserv...in_search.aspx but if this doesn't work, do the websearch on BINCS. As a side note, using BINCS with any vehicle parts manual, can give you the manufacturer and part number.
Rule 15. No photos of data plates unless specifically asked to take them and post them. I cut and past the information you put in here into a database search. I can't cut and paste from a photo. Remember this takes me time and I need to keep the amount of time I spend on this to a minimal. VIN numbers should all run together 0123456789, so don't use spaces or dashes. It just slows me down.
Rule 16. You must have your location listed to meet the requirements of being a member. No location, no information. This is also a pet peeve of mine.
Rule 17. Do not confuse the serial number for the registration number or the DTID number. The serial number is your VIN. The registration number doesn't really correlate to a civilian equivalent. It is worthless except to maintain historical significance. The DTID number is the defense turn in document number. It is the number the DRMO and GL folks use to track the vehicle through the turn in and sale process. It is worthless. 15/ The month and year at the end of the info is the date of the last record input that I have.
Rule 18. Don't trust the dash data plates, especially on deuces. For M35A2s the location of the frame serial number is shown below but on some former A1 models it is in the same position on the passenger side even if the truck was rebuilt to an A2 model. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/.../paperclip.png Attached Imageshttp://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachm...1&d=1325468281
Rule 19. Many will question how vehicles gain so few miles. In many cases these vehicles sit for months or even years awaiting turn in. If a unit gets deployed, the focus is the unit going to war, not turning in old trucks. Even if they aren't deploying, the turn in process is still a low priority over the normal day to day work. Also keep in mind the unit may have 30 or 40 trucks and may normally use 1 or 2 on a routine basis and the rest sit. National Guard has MATES and the Army Reserve has ECS and the Regular Army has the Pre-po program. All these put vehicles into long term storage at which time they do not get many road miles. Not uncommon for them to get 10 miles a year. So don't be surprised if this happens. Mechanics also change the speedos when needed. They are suppose to follow guidelines when this is done to mark the truck. Do they? Very Rarely. During rebuild the mileage is reset. If you want to complain about this, call your congressman, otherwise just be happy. Also, don't forget rule 4 above. If someone fat fingers the mileage on the report.....
Rule 20. AGAIN, DON'T PM ME WITH VIN INFO. THAT MAXS OUT MY TORQUE WRENCH. If you do send it to me by PM, don't be surprised if I tell you to reinput the information on the vin info thread. I don't do this via PM.
Let the stupidity begin.
Sure hope we get donations for the cause or this could be a very short year.
READ THE RULES BEFORE YOU DO SOMETHING STUPID!!!!! So if you fail to read and abide by the rules and I call you an idiot, don't whine about it, you'll still be an idiot for not reading the rules.
Rule 1. Anyone letting others know about VIN INFO, ensure you tell them to USE THE THREAD and not to PM me!!!!!!
Rule 2. Don't PM me to do your VIN INFO unless you want me to get real upset.
Rule 3. My pet peave is putting I (letter india) and O (letter oscar) in your VIN or Registration Number. The military only uses 1 (number one) and 0 (number zero). Flub this and be sent back to the read this. (It's a personal psychological problem that drives me nuts). Actually it gives back a no info if you use the letters instead of the numbers. That makes me do a second search after having to manually change the information you provided.
------------VERY IMPORTANT: YOU MAY THINK IT IS A O (letter Oscar) BUT IT IS A ZERO; YOU MAY THINK IT IS AN I (letter India) but it is a One. SCREW THIS UP AND I MAKE YOU FEEL STUPID, DON'T WHINE ABOUT IT. THAT'LL JUST MAKE ME WANT TO HARRASS YOU MORE. If you do, you may think you're right but you're wrong. You may swear up and down that is what is on the data plate but you're still wrong.
Rule 4. I provide the info that I have/can. The vin info is based on data inputs from the military and if the soldier inputting the information fat fingered the info, then your info will also show that error. You get what I find. The database started around 1971 so the vehicle had to be in service and MORE IMPORTANTLY entered into the database since then. Many units, especially the reserves or national guard, did not start registering their vehicles electronically until many years later. So it's not just a matter of the vehicle being in service in 1971 but had to be in a unit that did electronic registration before the vehicle was surplus. Some units didn't begin electronic registration until well into the 1980s. This explains why it is hit or miss.
Rule 5. The more info you provide the quicker I can find your vehicle. Provide as much of the following as possible:
a. Serial Number (VIN number) ------without dashes or spaces (0123456789 correct, 0123-456789 incorrect)
b. Registration Number -----also without dashes and do not use the letter O (Oscar) use 0 (zero) and don't use letter I (india) use number 1 (one).
c. NSN without dashes -----uh, one more time, without dashes
d. Where you bought it
e. Bumper numbers if you can legibly read them
Rule 6. IF YOU DON'T KNOW THE NSN, PLEASE LOOK IT UP ON GOOGLE!!!!!! I don't know the NSN for an M151 or M38 or most others. A M35A2 or M35A2 w/w, or all the CUCV series, yes, I know those off the top of my head. Others NO.
Rule 7. Try the top secret website to find out information about the unit. Don't tell anyone but the top secret website is GOOGLE. So when you get the unit and/or are looking for bumper numbers, try them first.
Rule 8. Don't ask where I get the info from, it doesn't matter and you cannot have access so don't ask.
Rule 9. I wait until I get a bunch of these. Another pet peeve is I have 2 or 3 to do after several weeks I finally get the info and then someone chimes in 5 minutes later wanting me to do theirs. Look, if you want me to run the numbers, get them in now. I have other things I do in life besides this.
Rule 10. If I give you info, please make a donation IF and ONLY IF you are capable of doing so and then give what you can, when you can. I know a lot of folks are out of work and short on cash. No problem, I have no tracking mechanism to show who gives and who doesn't. But if you can give, GIVE. Our performance in helping this charity has almost led me to stop doing this thread. VERY embarrassing for out of over 1000 vehicles I've provided info for, we have credit for just over $1000. Try to give a minimum of $15 per vin provided.
Rule 11. My standard disclaimer. I get absolutely no money for any donation. I do this for free and my only gain is the simple fact that your donation goes to a good cause and support the hobby and for being a nice guy which I hope will bring karma.
Rule 12. This thread is intended for the private collector and not for businesses that buy and sell large quantities. If you have one or two vehicles, no problem. If you have a bunch, we need to talk (not saying I won't do it but we need to talk on a PM before you post).
Rule 13. I can only do Army vehicles. I cannot do USMC, USN, USAF, or USCG. I can do all types of vehicles to include trailers and generators; however, there is only about a 40% chance a specific trailer and generator are in the database.
Rule 14. Your vehicle manufacturer will come back as a CAGE CODE; not as a company name. To translate the CAGE Code to a name, do a websearch for BINCS. Currently their website is the following https://www.logisticsinformationserv...in_search.aspx but if this doesn't work, do the websearch on BINCS. As a side note, using BINCS with any vehicle parts manual, can give you the manufacturer and part number.
Rule 15. No photos of data plates unless specifically asked to take them and post them. I cut and past the information you put in here into a database search. I can't cut and paste from a photo. Remember this takes me time and I need to keep the amount of time I spend on this to a minimal. VIN numbers should all run together 0123456789, so don't use spaces or dashes. It just slows me down.
Rule 16. You must have your location listed to meet the requirements of being a member. No location, no information. This is also a pet peeve of mine.
Rule 17. Do not confuse the serial number for the registration number or the DTID number. The serial number is your VIN. The registration number doesn't really correlate to a civilian equivalent. It is worthless except to maintain historical significance. The DTID number is the defense turn in document number. It is the number the DRMO and GL folks use to track the vehicle through the turn in and sale process. It is worthless. 15/ The month and year at the end of the info is the date of the last record input that I have.
Rule 18. Don't trust the dash data plates, especially on deuces. For M35A2s the location of the frame serial number is shown below but on some former A1 models it is in the same position on the passenger side even if the truck was rebuilt to an A2 model. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/.../paperclip.png Attached Imageshttp://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachm...1&d=1325468281
Rule 19. Many will question how vehicles gain so few miles. In many cases these vehicles sit for months or even years awaiting turn in. If a unit gets deployed, the focus is the unit going to war, not turning in old trucks. Even if they aren't deploying, the turn in process is still a low priority over the normal day to day work. Also keep in mind the unit may have 30 or 40 trucks and may normally use 1 or 2 on a routine basis and the rest sit. National Guard has MATES and the Army Reserve has ECS and the Regular Army has the Pre-po program. All these put vehicles into long term storage at which time they do not get many road miles. Not uncommon for them to get 10 miles a year. So don't be surprised if this happens. Mechanics also change the speedos when needed. They are suppose to follow guidelines when this is done to mark the truck. Do they? Very Rarely. During rebuild the mileage is reset. If you want to complain about this, call your congressman, otherwise just be happy. Also, don't forget rule 4 above. If someone fat fingers the mileage on the report.....
Rule 20. AGAIN, DON'T PM ME WITH VIN INFO. THAT MAXS OUT MY TORQUE WRENCH. If you do send it to me by PM, don't be surprised if I tell you to reinput the information on the vin info thread. I don't do this via PM.
Let the stupidity begin.
Last edited by a moderator:
AAE07-86-C-J111