I would like to switch to 12v so I can use one alt. to charge 2 batteries for starting. And use the other alt. to charge another battery for acc. such as flood lights, compressor, welder, so on.
I think that is a lot of work for a very un needed modification and with the accessories your talking about it would be going backwards not forwards...
With the exception of very few electrical devises you can add to a vehicle there is little along the lines of flood lighting and small accessories that are going to impact your electrical system so severely that you need a second alternator on a split 12V system. A PILE of audio amplifiers or a AC unit might justify such a mod but no amount of 12V lighting (which you can reasonably, or even excessively fit on the truck) is going to make that big of a dent in the system... As for momentary high use items... 12V welders and air compressors are not efficient enough tools to be used for extended periods so the most your going to see of them is during emergency use which is going to be intermittent at best so your charging system "keeping up with them" isn't a concern... Even if you wanted to go that crazy with lighting or a welder or compressor unit your better off and far more efficient to go with a professional 24V v/s 12V unit due to the lower amperage draw.... and if your THAT worried its not extra charging capacity you need to be concerned with... Its reserve capacity which you will only get from adding better quality, larger sized batteries... Or on some monster of a survival vehicle or something you would proably add a whole second set of batteries to the truck for the RC anyways.
As for jump starting... 90% of the time you can fire off a 24V vehicle with a jump from a 12V vehicle unless both of your batteries are dead... That being the case you would proably have to charge them before starting anyways.
Many people buy these trucks and start thinking of converting and yanking apart the military systems on them before they own them long enough realize the advantages to having them... and many as posted above later wish they had not. There is some train of thought that a 12V system is less complicated or works better for some reason, which isn't at all the case. A CUCV simply uses 2 12V alternators in series to get you 24V's... It isn't that hard to "get"... Besides, you can always get 12V from a 24V system with ease... Getting 24V from a 12V though is another story.
If DC systems are not confusing enough to most people... The whole auto industry is on a push for change which will jump right over 24V and take us to a 36V system... Its happening due to the excessive demands on electrical systems and amperage requirements of the newer electronics systems. Like aircraft "drive by wire" is quickly becoming a reality. Very soon (if not already and im just not aware of it) you will see the higher end auto makers releasing cars with these types of systems with the rest of the industry to follow... Smaller wiring harnesses means less weight, higher voltage means more available power and better efficiency meaning 12V will become obsolete like the older 6V systems of the classics with-in most of our lifetimes.
With out directing this at anyone posting in this thread... Before wrapping your brain around a "how to convert" mod... First try wrapping your brain around the function of the current system and the advantages of having it "as is"... There is a whole world of opportunity available to you in 24V which will always out perform and out last anything you can do with 12V... With the exception of maybe lower end hot rod'ed 2 way communication amplifiers and over kill car audio systems (yes I know im guilty) there is really no need for 12V... and the irony is most guys whom are REALLY into ether of those fields would kill for a 24V or 36V system which they could easily install on their vehicles because the truly high end equipment is all made in 24 or 36V!
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