8.3L Timing Cover Gasket and Front Crank Seal Change, Gravy Job!

[74M35A2]

Had an oil leak from the front of my 8.3L. Bought new timing cover gasket and crank seal. Was quick and easy to change both. 18mm socket and breaker bar for the 4 crank pulley bolts, 3/8” ratchet to drop the belt tensioner, and 10mm for the timing cover bolts and tach adapter.

Upon removing, found lower 3 bolts of timing cover finger loose. Removed cover, ground off old gasket, changed crank seal, and installed with new gasket. Was quick and easy. Nothing else had to be removed. Pulley fell right off. I simply put the breaker bar on it and against the frame rail, pulled the fuel kill cable, then just did a short starter bump to break each bolt loose by myself without holding the flywheel. Went perfect.

90 degree tach cable drive adapter is retained by two 10mm bolts/washers. Then large plastic mount simply unthreads from timing cover, pull plastic drive hex out.

That’s it. Gravy if you need to do it.

 

[Scrounger]

It seems that the lower bolts that hold the cover on the 8.3L tend to loosen over time. Had to do the same thing a few years back. Since the oil leak had covered everything under the hood with oil, I cleaned the engine up with a siphon gun and solvent, it made things easier. I also pulled the hood for access; it certainly wasn’t necessary. However, since the radiator was coming out to get rodded, cleaned and new tank gaskets it was worth the effort. I recommend Permatex Right Stuff for a gasket sealer when installing the new cover gasket.

 

[simp5782]

Everyone I have done they have been loose. I sleeve retainer loctite on them when they go back in. Never just come loose. The next person needs an impact driver on it without snapping the bolt off