816 Jakes and Turbo !!!!

[73m819]

I would NOT bump the fuel TILL you had a WORKING pyo, the 250 DOES NOT have piston coolers, it would be a shame to cook a piston.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Well,,,, sprung for a pyro at napa the other day,, I hate mickey mousing things but I needed to run the truck so the pyro is held to the top of the dash via one of the defroster screws. will find a permanant mounting location that the shifter wont destroy later. So draggin the dozer up a 6% grade got me to 10mph, 2100 RPM water temp at 200*F and a Pyro temp of 850-900*F (post turbo, didnt have the right bushing for the manifold plug) Really wishing for the 10/13spd trans...
Just the truck without the 22K lbs of dozer and trailer in tow, will yeild about the same temps, just a better speed of about 20-25mph rolling up the 6% grade. Open road will see cruising at 400*F pyro and 180 on the water temp with a speed of about 50-55 on NDT tires.. I really need to get the dual fuel line mod done, but havent had the time.... seems everyone wants something done tomarow. and not to mention the Sturgis Rally is a week away, thus Im crawling in a hole and not coming out till that mayhem is over...

Like I said... I have the 17 button on the bench, should I swap it in or not???? Im feeling like I should try it...

 

[srodocker]

Nice setup!

 

[red]

Since you have a pyro now to watch the EGT's, why not. If it starts getting too hot just ease up on the throttle.

 

[162tcat]

Put the #17 in, you'll be happy with the results and shouldn't have any issues. Just watch your temps. I've been running my turbo 250 for probably 2 years now without issue and I tow heavy too. I upped the RPM to 2300, lower fuel button (#20 I think), dual fuel mod and no inter or after cooler.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

went to move it up the hill the other day to do the fuel button swap and finish scrounging together the dual fuel, but the batteries gave up the magic smoke...... tryed in vain to jump it but it wouldnt have it.... Luckily a week before it did jump off and I was able to take an old Air Cav Veitnam Vet for a ride up the road and back,,,, he couldnt wipe the grin off for several hours.......
But I ended up having to replace the batteries, went with 4 group 31 Dekas and now the top posts are touchin the step..... so I have to yet again modify the box.... (I cut the center wall out of both boxes and welded them together to make one big box) Now I have to cut out the riser in the bottom to allow the batteries to set low enough to not weld themselves to to the step on the first pot hole...

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Got the #17 put in the other day and got screwed on my fittings (6AN to 1/8 pipe) for the dual fuel mod, John Deere shop gave me 5JIC instead of 6JIC (little known mod,,, JIC and AN are close enough to hook up and work... one is approx 37* angle and the other is maybe 40*) Whole job took about 30min dodging rain drops..... Havent had rain in a month and it decides to come while Im finally getting around to this mod......
Question...... In the old scrap pump that I pulled the #17 button from there were 3 small washers under the small spring under the button.... My pump on the 250 with a #37 button only had one small washer..... I put the #17 in the 250 pump with just the one washer but havent had a chance to drive it down the road, just move it across the yard..... (tach cable is busted thus no real way to tell incresed RPMs)
For those who have done this, ,,, Should I put the other two small washers in or leave it the way I found it.?????

i will try to get some pics of the battery box mod, but Im having trouble uploading pics here lately.....

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Ok,,, Im back, First, the picture posting has gone arye, I cannot get pics to upload anymore, the pic will start to upload and then sits and cycles for eternity.. I dont know what is going on.

Second.
got the dual fuel done, combined with the turbo and the #17 button, WOW. I have never been able to hold 4th or 5th like this before. Only have one small problem...... I have dead pedal.... It is most prominant in 3rd gear at about 3/4 throttle the engine will climb up and then just stop, kinda like a tach out but its more like a de fuel. then I shift and it chokes and slowly climbs up and regains speed and RPMs... Crane govener is off, and once it gets going it runs down the road fine, but if I hit a a dip in the road it sounds like it defuels untill i start to climb and then the roar of the engine takes off again. If I stay below that mark it will roar away, but try to cross it and it will choke and sputter. EGTs on the pyro are staying around 800 thus the 17 button really lowered my Pyro temps and putting fuel to both ends of the head has smoothed out the running alot....
Tach is still broke, ordering a new cable today,,, but need one with about 3 extra inches due to the big watercooled intake,,,,

Side note, Who knows a good replacement fuel filter housing,,,, I really want the spin on version... Mind you I have a Cummins location nearby but the parts girls only know part numbers,,, thus even if its a Pete or Freightliner part number they can cross it, just not real good at digging up stuff unless I give them something to go on.

 

[red]

Good to hear that the engine upgrades have helped a lot.

What are your rpm's when the engine feels like it defuels?

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Good to hear that the engine upgrades have helped a lot.

What are your rpm's when the engine feels like it defuels?

Dont know the RPMs as the Tach cable is broke, ordering one, but needing one that is longer than stock for the bigger intake.. found out yesterday that an M35a2 or 3 is about 6" longer with the same ends so that should work,,,,

 

[350TacoZilla]

I would think either de-fueling is an issue or maybe fuel supply is restricted pre pump, now that you have the dual lines and the turbo the stock supply line might be partially restricted and where the stock motor could live with it you may be requiring more fuel then can pass through now. I have also heard of a case where the dual line mod cause the motor to start de-fueling earlier and needed the governor tweaked to regain the rpm.

 

[red]

Dont know the RPMs as the Tach cable is broke, ordering one, but needing one that is longer than stock for the bigger intake.. found out yesterday that an M35a2 or 3 is about 6" longer with the same ends so that should work,,,,

If your looking for a used one let me know

 

[wcuhillbilly]

I would think either de-fueling is an issue or maybe fuel supply is restricted pre pump, now that you have the dual lines and the turbo the stock supply line might be partially restricted and where the stock motor could live with it you may be requiring more fuel then can pass through now. I have also heard of a case where the dual line mod cause the motor to start de-fueling earlier and needed the governor tweaked to regain the rpm.

Thanks,,, Ill look into this when the tach cable gets here. Right now looking at either Eriks Surplus or Army 6x6, Due to my geographic location .....(BFE) Andy at Army is closest, but I need a couple other things too,,, Namely Im trying to get the Runnins Lights on with the headlights, and Erik sells an adapter plug that does the splice for you, Pretty expensive but no splicing required all plug and play at the back of the light switch.
Secondly, looking at the M35 duece front axle disconect air switch, Army may have one floating around, thus the shipping would be faster from Army but Erik has a couple items that will work too (Erik figured out that the 35 shared the same ends and cable as the 816 and is 6-7" longer which will easily clear my intake) Thus Im just waiting on Andys call on monday to see what he has before I put the order in.

Red,,,,, Thanks for the PM on filter bases... Trying to get away from the big cauldren of the stock filter in the wheel well.

 

[red]

Since you don't have a tach cable yet It's most likely either a fuel restriction of some type (filter, lines) or you're reaching max RPM.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

got the new tach cable in last nite, and it is taching out at 1800,,,, SO..... How do I get it back to 2300rpm.??????

 

[162tcat]

Didn't have time to read back through but what else did you change at the time of the dual fuel mod?

 

[red]

got the new tach cable in last nite, and it is taching out at 1800,,,, SO..... How do I get it back to 2300rpm.??????

Those washers that were left out when you swapped buttons will adjust that.

 

[162tcat]

Those washers that were left out when you swapped buttons will adjust that.

Yes, that would definitely cause that issue! You can change buttons but keep the same number (or even add 1 or 2) as the pump that was on the engine had.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Ok,,, I will take the donor pump apart tonite, as when I finished putting the #17 in I just put everything back together in order in the scrap pump for safe keeping..... Just to Clarify,,, we are talking about the tiny washers (currently 1, formerly 3) that are under the button and held in by the small spring. NOT the larger washers (5 total) toward the rear of the pump near the snap ring...?????

 

[162tcat]

Yes. That should fix it. Report back