Adjusted the brakes

[Crawdaddy]

Today I got outside and did the minor brake adjustment on the deuce. Now I have a nice firm pedal that starts working at 1/3 push down whereas it previously took probably close to a 3/4 push before. After adjusting the brakes, I took it out for a test drive. Now I can lock the tires up. I'm happy.

Adjusting the brakes also allowed me to closely inspect the brake lines, and I found a brake line on the front drivers side that has been rubbing against the rim. Going to probably replace all the lines while I'm at it. Better safe than sorry.

 

[RangerDave]

Just to add to your checking the brake lines thread, I am doing the same thing and noted that the metal brake lines seem to rust through every where they contact the frame (dirt and water creating advanced corrosion - leading to my brake failure) where as the rest of the line or even opposite of the rust is almost mint condition...

So I replaced all of the rubber hoses and the main brake line that failed to the rear duals (all 11' of it) and this is when I discovered chromed brake line at NAPA.... Should hold up better and I bent the metal tabs that hold the brake lines away from the frame.

Power bleeding the system is a joy with the DOT5 in a Bug Jug!!! Brakes are now solid!!!

 

[Fredo Corleone]

I had a soft pedal on my deuce, I had to bleed it at the airpak

 

[Crawdaddy]

Once I replace the hoses, I'll obviously have to bleed everything. However, I really need to get this truck rolling for next Friday and I don't have time to source parts and build a power bleeder and I don't have a second person available to operate the brakes while I bleed. Can I just use a regular automotive vacuum bleeder to pull brake fluid through the brake lines to the wheel cylinders like you ordinarily would? It seems like there isn't anything majorly different from this brake system from a regular car's brakes, so it should work.

 

[Marlboro]

Don't see why not, just keep an eye on the master cyl. It doesn't hold much fluid

 

[Crawdaddy]

I ordered new brake hoses for the entire truck (2 fronts, and 1 each for the rear axles) and a gallon of DOT5 ($45 a gal) from Saturn. Should be in around Wednesday next week. Then, it'll be a mad rush to get them changed out and the brakes bled for Friday afternoon. Time to hit the TMs for the bleeding procedure...

 

[Fredo Corleone]

the power bleeder is the only way I will do the brakes. mine cost about 25.00 with one trip to the hardware store.

 

[DieselBob]

I ordered new brake hoses for the entire truck (2 fronts, and 1 each for the rear axles) and a gallon of DOT5 ($45 a gal) from Saturn. Should be in around Wednesday next week. Then, it'll be a mad rush to get them changed out and the brakes bled for Friday afternoon. Time to hit the TMs for the bleeding procedure...

You missed one, from the front frame to axle.

 

[Crawdaddy]

Bummer. I knew I was going to miss something. I'll check it out tommorow, but I think it's ok.

 

[73m819]

On the 819, I had the line to the rear axle start to leak, so ordered all 5, glad I did, ALL were age cracked and the front had major rub spots, I should have spotted the old and rub sooner but didn't. CHECKING those rubber lines should be part of the pre trip, things can change trip to trip, a stick or road debris gets into them, bracket or spring breaks, ect

Also carry a small pair of vise grips in your truck tools along with brake fluid so if you do get a line leaking, you can pinch it off, refill the m/c, half ass bleed, it will get you to someplace that you can fix/bleed

 

[runk]

Get some penetrating oil on the fittings now !!!! Just did mine, all had 1987 dates on them. The rears came off without too much drama, the the 3 fronts were stuck-stuck-stuck, and the one from the frame to the front axle is tough to get to on the frame rail end.
Don't forget to use a flare nut wrench on the steel line ends, they are are pretty soft.

Have fun...