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Advise for the future bobbers!

After studying and reading till my eyes blur, here's a suggestion for the crowd that wants to bob a deuce. I was looking at various threads and reading the opinions on the best VS. the cheapest way to do a bob job that is safe, durable and reliable. After much banter about the pros and cons of using M105 springs for the availability factor as well as cost of a set of deuce front springs, you have the option of using lift blocks between the springs, or cutting the section of the M105 chassis in front of and behind the springs and mounting that section under the deuce frame. OK fine, then came the discussion of weather to weld, bolt, rivet, or plate the two frames together and then it hit me. Why not leave the bogie plates riveted to the frame and use those to bolt the trailer frame section to the truck frame? So I gave a call to Mark A.K.A. "Hundy" at 100Dollarman in Lucerne Valley California, as he's done a bunch of bobbers and one of which used the trailer frame section to mount the springs and axle. When I dropped the idea on him and asked if he could think of any reason why this wouldn't work or be feasable, the first words outta his mouth were "Hmmm, I never thought about that but I can't see why it wouldn't work.". Does anyone else have any input on this? I'll be making the 500+ mile journey to get my truck next week and when I get it back, I'll be diving into a bob job and I would like it to go as smooth as possible. (obviously!)
Any input or advise would be greatly appreciated!

LET THE BRAINSTORMING BEGIN!!!!! :grd:
 
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Bob H

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The trailer frame is too weak for the job.
Yeah Hundy welds em on all the time, doesn't mean it's strong, durable or safe. Just means so far no failures.
Mounting a set of front springs using all the hardware from the front is stronger, more durable and therefore safer.
 

ICAT

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Idaho
I used a set of springs and hangers from an m149 water trailer. They were attached by rivets to the trailer and I used grade 8 bolts to attach them to my frame. They have 7 bolts per side.
 

KsM715

Well-known member
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St George Ks
Whats under the front of your truck Ridgerunner? I know its custom built and braced but essentially its no different than a 105 frame cut and put under the rear of the truck.
 

PROSTOCKTOM

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I'm sold on using the Peterbilt Air Leaf Suspension and forget about using springs.

Better Ride

You can dump the bags and drop the backend down.

Super nice looking setup.

Tom
 

cidrich

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Location
lexington, NC
I have lift spacers under mine just like Ridgerunner has. Made out of all 3/8 material,boxed and braced with a 2x2x3/8 wall tube. Alot stronger than double frame. And as I see it alot safer and stronger. Mine also has a freightliner air ride under the rear. Rides great! Especially with air ride seat too.:grin:
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
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Wonder how those M105s have handling all that weight on their little frames all these decades? Bobbing a deuce reduces the capacity all around so adding the M105 frame section to the existing trucks frame should propose no safety issues if done right. Some boxing should be done. As far as the OP question, the tandem side plates trimmed in length will work great for the application. I would think that using an engineered section of frame would be better than fabbing up a bunch of plates together. YMMV
 

100dollarman

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The trailer frame is too weak for the job.
Yeah Hundy welds em on all the time, doesn't mean it's strong, durable or safe. Just means so far no failures.
Mounting a set of front springs using all the hardware from the front is stronger, more durable and therefore safer.

The trailer framed boxed in is NOT too weak. It IS durable and it IS safe. And PROVEN. Btw- our bobbers were always the customers choice whether they wanted spring setup or trailer frame. We have done approx 1/2 and 1/2.
 
71
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Location
Bloomsburg/PA
Hmm planning on bobbing my deuce here soon as well. In the 3 Yrs that i have owned my 105a2 trailer I regularly haul 3-4 tons cargo on it. With a GVW rating of 7250 its not too far off. The helpers are touching but no where near max capacity. The spring hangers are what i would thing the weak link is but a haven't broke one yet. I usually run out of box space faster then anything else so my reckoning is the truck will be loaded to the capacity that the 105 has been given box space plus frame drivetrain etc. I don't know what I'm gonna do aua
 

tco3129

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Flat Top W.V.
I went the M105 frame route on my Kaiser. I grade 8 bolted , not welded, personal preference. It may not be as strong as the original frame but if I have a questionable load why sweat it? just break out the full size AM GEN. What? You don't have another fullsize?
THEY'RE HERD ANIMALS! YOU GOT TO GET ANOTHER!:driver:
 
71
0
6
Location
Bloomsburg/PA
True.. Only problem I have with that theory is my other deuce is running farm tags so 25 Mile radius from the farm if the should stop me. I think it should be fine maybe some air bag assist or extra helpers If it appears the 105 springs aren't enough..
 

197thhhc

Active member
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Williamsburg, OHIO
We use boxed and bolted m105 frame sections. We also put plates on the side. This way we dont have to use blocks to level it up. Hundy is right on. They are safe and they ride better than deuce front springs. When you cut off 3 feet of frame and an axle you dont have as much hauling capacity (we figure 1.25 tons off road and 2.5 on) which is the capacity of a M105 trailer. I dont know too many people loading these that heavy. They are mainly for show and off road play. If I want a vehicle to haul very heavy loads I use our regular deuce.
 

Attachments

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That Pete air-spring setup looks pretty spiffy! How much does that setup cost? That's the beauty of bolting on a chunk of trailer chassis, If I happen to stumble across that air-spring assembly later, it's just as easy to un-bolt the trailer spring section and change it out.
I could just as easily build a triangulated 4-link setup and run just the air bags.
 

KsM715

Well-known member
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Location
St George Ks
Thats the reason I did mine with the trailer frame set up. It was quik and easy and if I decided I didn't like it I could just unbolt it and roll it out from under and start over.

I hauled .98 of a ton of scrap metal to the salvage yard when I was done and it didn't even squat it 1/4 inch.

I wish I had thought of leaving the side plates on the frame, it would have made squaring up the frame alot faster and easier.
 
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