Alternator Upgrade Question with A Twist

[jonesal]

Forum,

I have the following battery setup on my M923:



and am upgrading from this stock 60 amp alternator:



to this alternator that is 260 amps at 28v and 140 amps at 14v:



The reason being is that I have added an A/C kit for a M915A2 that is 14/28v, an Eyecon light system, and other electrical stuff. The wires from the alternator upgrade have to go straight to the battery banks.

I have all my mounts, wire sizes and fuses figured out. My question is this: if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly, I can delete wire 5 from the stock alternator to the Protective Control Box (PCB) and the stock starter system that includes the PCB will function as intended; true or false? I've ran the "simulations" on P2P and it appears so. However, all you are much more clever than me and P2P, so I'm throwing this out to you for comment.

Sorry if this belongs under the 5 ton modifications forum. Perhaps a moderator can move it if this is a violation.

Thank you,
Al Jones
Brookings, SD

PS, BTW, I've been meaning to post how the Eyecon mounted on my M923, here are a few pics; I'll post the complete install thread at a later date:

 

[simp5782]

Wire 5 is your exciter wire. Which your alternator has to have to turn it on i believe.

Those neihoffs aren't just single wire units that put out power no matter what.

I think they are junk. I just run a 110amp 24v brushless alternator and a 24 to 12v equalizers that can handle 100amps each

It is more than enough power for the eyecon and ac kit.

The neihoffs don't put out much voltage at idle.

.

 

[jonesal]

Here are the tags on the wires from the harness. Wire "5" is the main output (with an extra "POS" tag that was on it) and the exciter wire as you call it is labelled 568 which both match the wiring diagram, P2P and tracing the wires through the harness.



So not sure what you're talking about above. As far as not much voltage at output, I've also attached the load characteristics of the N1224 relative to the alternator rpms, which of course is related to the size of pully on it. The loading curves I'm seeing shows pretty decent output at idle.

N1224 Characteristics.pdf

As far as "junk", I guess I'll deal with that when and/or if it happens. I've been through the unit and am comfortable it's up to the task. I'm just trying to have fun here and seek some knowledge along the way.

Back to the main question, if anyone has any comments on eliminating wire "5", I'm all ears.

Thanks,
Al Jones
Brookings, SD

 

[simp5782]

5 and 568 branch together. 568 just has a diode.

At the branch 5d picks up.

You can just tape it off then.

 

[juanprado]

I would like to see what you did for brackets.

 

[KN6KXR]

"My question is this: if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly, I can delete wire 5 from the stock alternator to the Protective Control Box (PCB) and the stock starter system that includes the PCB will function as intended; true or false?"

The way I'm looking at it the schematic shows me power is coming out of the PCB (on wire 5 at terminal D) and feeding both 5/568/5D/5A which appear to be the alternator output and voltage target sense line. Also appears to be the charge line to the battery. There's a zener diode on the schematic in the PCB connected that looks like it prevents overvoltage.

Maybe I have the wrong schematic? You could give it a try but I would be ready to put it back. Don't tear it out of there. Like I said maybe I'm looking at the wrong schematic or I dont understand the question.

 

[jonesal]

Thanks for the helpful responses. I've also pulled the harness from the PCB and will see how wire 5 intertwines with the other wires mentioned. I like the PCB (again, I'm having fun here) so I want to keep it.

I'll post pics of the bracket I made once it's all up and running.

Thanks again!!
Allen