Amazing how much difference some 2cycle makes.

[QuickSilver]

When I first picked up my M1009 a few days ago, it was running pretty rough. A good share of that issue was an air filter packed full of mud, but even after cleaning up that mess, she was still a little rougher than ideal. Today when I filled the tank, I added a full quart of 2cycle oil, then throttle jokeyed the crap out of the engine as I drove it around for the rest of the day. She runs like a top now, smooth as can be.

 

[Cucvnut]

maybe I should try that.

 

[merace19]

Funny your screen name is the same as a 2 cycle oil...

 

[QuickSilver]

Funny your screen name is the same as a 2 cycle oil...

For real? LOL

 

[67_C-30]

Yep!

 

[xenocath]

i hope you are not using that particular oil since i believe its synthetic and i don't think you should use synthetic in a diesel as a fuel additive according to other posts i have read on this site. i use tcw3 xd 25 evirude/johnson about 1 qt to a tank full. made a huge diffrence here as well.

 

[kweb434]

I got my 1986 M1008 a couple of weeks ago. This is my first diesel engine and why do add 2 cycle oil to the fuel? I put in an additive when I fuel up. Will this help the MPG?

 

[corelokt]

2 stroke is a very aggressive deposit cleaner. It may even loosen up so much stuff your filter will plug. I bought a case of filters and a case of ECU units (the pollution control valve mounted to the passenger valve cover) Both are worthwhile investments as you will need both to keep it running its best. Use the 2 stroke once a year one tank prior to changing your filter. The additive is good for water prevention and C-tane boosting, and I use that also.

 

[xenocath]

two stroke oil when added to current on road diesel adds to the lubricating qualities of the fuel that the manufacturers have removed due to dropping the sulfer content and in the older style diesel motors it helps certain components last longer. there is tons of info on this site about fuel additives pros and cons,before you do anything i highly suggest you spend a few hours searching and reading. i have added two stroke oil to my fuel every fill up since i got the truck and have had no issues with fuel filter plugging up. that "ecu" on your apssenger valve cover is actually a CDR (crankcase depression regulator) the j code 6.2 has no emissions control. if you have a case of those CDR send me a pm if you want to sell one.

 

[ralbelt]

I add a 12 oz bottle of 2 stroke with every fill up.

 

[CUCV85]

Bought my truck in 2005 62k 1200.00 truck was purchased cheap,
so had a shop rebuilt the IP (25 years old) jp8 not good.
shop said to run the walmart 2 cycle twc3 20oz for 20 gallons fuel, used ever since.

 

[CUCV85]

two stroke oil when added to current on road diesel adds to the lubricating qualities of the fuel that the manufacturers have removed due to dropping the sulfer content and in the older style diesel motors it helps certain components last longer. there is tons of info on this site about fuel additives pros and cons,before you do anything i highly suggest you spend a few hours searching and reading. i have added two stroke oil to my fuel every fill up since i got the truck and have had no issues with fuel filter plugging up. that "ecu" on your apssenger valve cover is actually a CDR (crankcase depression regulator) the j code 6.2 has no emissions control. if you have a case of those CDR send me a pm if you want to sell one.

I add a 12 oz bottle of 2 stroke with every fill up.

Bought my truck in 2005 62k 1200.00 truck was purchased cheap,
so had a shop rebuilt the IP (25 years old) jp8 not good.
shop said to run the walmart 2 cycle twc3 20oz for 20 gallons fuel, used ever since.

diesel now is ...well, lessdiesel

 

[67_C-30]

two stroke oil when added to current on road diesel adds to the lubricating qualities of the fuel that the manufacturers have removed due to dropping the sulfer content and in the older style diesel motors it helps certain components last longer. there is tons of info on this site about fuel additives pros and cons,before you do anything i highly suggest you spend a few hours searching and reading. i have added two stroke oil to my fuel every fill up since i got the truck and have had no issues with fuel filter plugging up. that "ecu" on your apssenger valve cover is actually a CDR (crankcase depression regulator) the j code 6.2 has no emissions control. if you have a case of those CDR send me a pm if you want to sell one.

Agreed!

Older diesels like our's with rotary style IP's need more lubrication than modern diesel provides. It's a good idea to add something with every fill up, and 2 cycle oil is cheaper and more easily attainable than sulfur additives.

 

[Sasquatch]

There's a pretty long discussion about results from a diesel additive study over at Diesel Place, came across it while doing a search.

Lubricity Additive Study Results - Diesel Place

Results say 2 cycle outperforms a lot of commercial additives, I use about a quart of 2 cycle and sometimes Power Service Diesel Supplement especially in the fall, to prevent fuel gelling if we get an early cold snap and still have summer fuel sitting in the tank.

 

[stumps]

i hope you are not using that particular oil since i believe its synthetic and i don't think you should use synthetic in a diesel as a fuel additive according to other posts i have read on this site. i use tcw3 xd 25 evirude/johnson about 1 qt to a tank full. made a huge diffrence here as well.

Using SAE 30 as an example:

Conventional dinosaur SAE 30 oil is a soup of thinner and thicker oil molecules, whose viscosity happens to average out to that expected for SAE 30.

Synthetic SAE 30 oil is a highly refined dinosaur oil that is chemically modified so that it is a monoculture of one oil molecule. That is to say its entire composition is of one thickness oil molecule, that happens to meet the viscosity expected for SAE 30.

They are both hydrocarbon oils, and they burn equally well in a diesel. The SAE 30 dino oil might have a slight edge because the lighter oil fractions it contains burn a little more easily... but then so does the diesel fuel you mixed it with.

Why is synthetic desirable? Simply because it is all one type of oil molecule. Conventional oils have thinner oil molecules mixed in with thicker oil molecules. They burn, and wear out at different rates. Synthetic is entirely the most desirable oil molecule, so it provides more protection for a longer amount of time.

-Chuck

 

[OL AG '89]

I've been using the oil I pull out of it, and my other vehicles, with each oil change..... I run it through 2 - 10 micron filters that I rigged up and works just great.
Anybody see an issue with running the old oil and saving money?
I put in about 1 quart every fill up

 

[Woodsman]

Using SAE 30 as an example:

Conventional dinosaur SAE 30 oil is a soup of thinner and thicker oil molecules, whose viscosity happens to average out to that expected for SAE 30.

Synthetic SAE 30 oil is a highly refined dinosaur oil that is chemically modified so that it is a monoculture of one oil molecule. That is to say its entire composition is of one thickness oil molecule, that happens to meet the viscosity expected for SAE 30.

They are both hydrocarbon oils, and they burn equally well in a diesel. The SAE 30 dino oil might have a slight edge because the lighter oil fractions it contains burn a little more easily... but then so does the diesel fuel you mixed it with.

Why is synthetic desirable? Simply because it is all one type of oil molecule. Conventional oils have thinner oil molecules mixed in with thicker oil molecules. They burn, and wear out at different rates. Synthetic is entirely the most desirable oil molecule, so it provides more protection for a longer amount of time.

-Chuck

Based on your informative post above, doesn't this make a good case for using fully synthetic lubricants where possible to utilize the benefit of a stable viscosity index for improved lubrication? It was my understanding the processing the oil undergoes to achieve a semi-synthetic or full synthetic oil classification makes the oil molecules more uniform, which sounds like what you stated. My only concern is the mixing of various additives that might be different between manufacturers that might cause some unknown issue. I'm not a chemist or chem. engineer by any stretch of the imagination, but was involved in a small project where I had to learn more abut this subject. (which is just about exhausted in this post.) And, based on the adjacent post from OL AG '89, I wonder if this might be one way to prevent what I'll call cross-contamination?

 

[QuickSilver]

I'm just running regular ol Car Quest brand two cycle oil. Is there a reason why something else might be better?

 

[xenocath]

i think almost any two stroke oil will work as an additive the reason i brought up the none synthetic schtick was i read that it caused coking of the injectors which caused them to fail and frankly i am not willing to take a risk on trying to burn synthetic in my tank. i run the marine tcw3 simply due to the price i can get it at and the quantity i can get. as far as the waste oil goes there are discussions over in the alt fuels section covering almost anything involving fuels and what our vehicles can handle.

 

[stumps]

Based on your informative post above, doesn't this make a good case for using fully synthetic lubricants where possible to utilize the benefit of a stable viscosity index for improved lubrication?

I can't think of a single case where non-synthetic oil would be more desirable than synthetic, if you only consider its lubricating properties... However, synthetic's price may sway your choice of a synthetic oil over a conventional dino oil.

It was my understanding the processing the oil undergoes to achieve a semi-synthetic or full synthetic oil classification makes the oil molecules more uniform, which sounds like what you stated.

Correct.

Bear in mind that you can achieve the same uniformity through a variety of means, including the fractional distillation techniques used with conventional dino oil... With conventional dino oil, and fractional distillation, you are essentially sorting out the different molecules, and selecting out only the type you want... you may not get the volume of a particular molecule that you need, and you certainly will get too much of the types you don't.

Synthetic oil processing takes the random dino oil soup, that comes from the well, and breaks it all down into a series of smaller molecules that can be recombined to build the molecule you desire. You are trading a more sophisticated production process for a return of nearly 100% of the oil molecule you desire.... in other words, no waste.

My only concern is the mixing of various additives that might be different between manufacturers that might cause some unknown issue. I'm not a chemist or chem. engineer by any stretch of the imagination, but was involved in a small project where I had to learn more abut this subject. (which is just about exhausted in this post.) And, based on the adjacent post from OL AG '89, I wonder if this might be one way to prevent what I'll call cross-contamination?

Most synthetic oil doesn't need, and as such doesn't contain, the viscosity modifiers that you find in conventional dinosaur multi-viscosity oils. It does, however, contain all of the other additives (detergents, friction modifiers, ...) that conventional dinosaur oils contain. They shouldn't produce a compatibility problem.

-Chuck