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Tried to back it out and the tool broke as well.... 
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Any suggestions on snapped off brass fitting on brake can?
- Thread starter Reworked LMTV
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dmetalmiki
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Patience is key here.
A (Very) Small good quality drill.
Drill into the brass around the broken hardened tool.
Then Drill carefully close to the thread of the fitting.
Work the broken pieces out.
On reflection, I would, (After looking at the pictures once more)
Drill all round the Brass fitting close atop the thread.
If that cylinder has no spring it, I would dissemble it and carry out this careful procedure on a bench under good light.
Perhaps then clean up the threads with a tap.
Or, Drill next tapping oversize and re-tap it if needs must.
There will be fittings to suit I'm sure.
Post up how you did it. With pictures,
Good luck.
A (Very) Small good quality drill.
Drill into the brass around the broken hardened tool.
Then Drill carefully close to the thread of the fitting.
Work the broken pieces out.
On reflection, I would, (After looking at the pictures once more)
Drill all round the Brass fitting close atop the thread.
If that cylinder has no spring it, I would dissemble it and carry out this careful procedure on a bench under good light.
Perhaps then clean up the threads with a tap.
Or, Drill next tapping oversize and re-tap it if needs must.
There will be fittings to suit I'm sure.
Post up how you did it. With pictures,
Good luck.
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- TN
Thank you kindly!
dmetalmiki
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I checked the pictures again..And yes.
Drill all around the brass fitting close to the threads.
Carefully then work out the part with the broken extractor still in place..
If you re tap it, An adapter from the tapped size back to the original size would easily be obtained.
You need to make sure NO pieces of brass fall into the cylinder, Hence a strip down (Providing there is NO pressure spring inside, Should be carried out.)
Drill all around the brass fitting close to the threads.
Carefully then work out the part with the broken extractor still in place..
If you re tap it, An adapter from the tapped size back to the original size would easily be obtained.
You need to make sure NO pieces of brass fall into the cylinder, Hence a strip down (Providing there is NO pressure spring inside, Should be carried out.)
coachgeo
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just reminder.... spring can kill.... make sure you know how to properly do this if spring is an issue; requiring removal If so..... just get a used complete can or a new one.
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Yep, removing the rear can be deadly.
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I’m not 100% sure what were looking at, an ez-out with a drill bit broke off in it?
With the spring warnings taken care of, I’d pull the can apart and knock the ez-out out from the inside, heat the broken fitting allow to cool and try again.
With the spring warnings taken care of, I’d pull the can apart and knock the ez-out out from the inside, heat the broken fitting allow to cool and try again.
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Be safe but this is the tool to get out pipe and fittings. Never found better even with all the tools I made. One of these saved me 180 MW one time.
Drill a straight hole and stick it in and turn it. It cams locks on the inside, works good.
Internal Pipe Nipple Extractor Wrench.
Personally I afraid of those brake cans and would just replace it, see all precautions and stories here in Steel Soldiers.
Drill a straight hole and stick it in and turn it. It cams locks on the inside, works good.
Internal Pipe Nipple Extractor Wrench.
Personally I afraid of those brake cans and would just replace it, see all precautions and stories here in Steel Soldiers.
Thoughts on rear air brake chamber assemblies
For the LMTV community (and should be similar for other wedge brake systems): I had a noisy rear left side pair of air chambers after I shut down my M1081 LVAD. You could hear air leaking out of the spring chamber (larger inboard section that uses caging bolt). The air could be heard with or...
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Actually that tool or quite similar is what is broken off in there lol
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Do they use a loctite for air lines on these fittings?
dmetalmiki
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Then OK. DON'T mess with taking it apart
Do as I suggested, Take your time, Careful drilling and sucking out the swarf WILL get that fitting out. Grease the Drill..(And), It will gather the swarf for you.
Do as I suggested, Take your time, Careful drilling and sucking out the swarf WILL get that fitting out. Grease the Drill..(And), It will gather the swarf for you.
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If that true that thing is hardened and you ain't gonnah drill it out. Buy a new can.
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Not grease, use Tallow
dmetalmiki
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Yep, Good, And (As said) you ain't (Going to) drill that hardened easy out..So, As I instructed Drill Round It..It will Then come out. ( with some poking prodding and a magnet ).
If I was near I would do it for you using (My ) our motto, " We are the kiddies, We have the techno, We can't be beat.
That has surely applied to the 67782 ( Nah' that can't be done ) jobs done over the course of many many years.
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dmetalmiki
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when finished drilling: small chissle, / pointer / plck the brass away.
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Internal pipe wrenches, or cam wrenches, are nice but you must by the higher quality wrenches. The cheaper ones end up making things worse as they have here.
That port goes to the service diaphragm. There is no spring in there. The spring is in the other half of the can which does not need to be disassembled to remove the fitting. See pictures...
The fitting you broke is where the red plug is in my picture. If you remove the clamp directly above that port this is what's inside...
There is only a diphragm and push tube behind that clamp. I couldn't find my push tube that goes with that can. You just pull the push tube out. The spring is behind the larger clamp. Do not touch the larger clamp. That is a sealant/threadlocker that was applied to that fitting when installed.
Here's how I would do it...
Get a set of fluted extractors. The fluted are made for softer materials, like brass, and work much better than sprirals.
Next, you need to cage the brake can with the caging bolt. Caging the can acts as a double safety. If you were to drop the can, the caging bolt and the clamp must both fail for the spring to be released from the can. New spring brake cans are always caged for this reason as seen in my first picture. That can came with 2 caging bolts, one caging the can and one in the holder. You are only caging the can for safety. You're not opening the can. Just so I'm clear...
Remove the small clamp and set the can to the side. Remove the diaphragm and push tube. All you'll have left is a metal stalk screwed into the brake spider. You don't need to remove it if you don't want to. Use a punch to knock the broken wrench out from the inside. Insert the correct fluted extractor into the fitting from the outside and drive it in until it's got a good bite.
Take a small torch and heat the fitting while turning the extractor. The heat will soften the sealant and should allow you to remove the fitting. Wait until everything has cooled then re-install the push tube, diaphragm and can. Remove the caging bolt and don't forget to put it back in its holder for later use.
That port goes to the service diaphragm. There is no spring in there. The spring is in the other half of the can which does not need to be disassembled to remove the fitting. See pictures...
The fitting you broke is where the red plug is in my picture. If you remove the clamp directly above that port this is what's inside...
There is only a diphragm and push tube behind that clamp. I couldn't find my push tube that goes with that can. You just pull the push tube out. The spring is behind the larger clamp. Do not touch the larger clamp. That is a sealant/threadlocker that was applied to that fitting when installed.
Here's how I would do it...
Get a set of fluted extractors. The fluted are made for softer materials, like brass, and work much better than sprirals.
Next, you need to cage the brake can with the caging bolt. Caging the can acts as a double safety. If you were to drop the can, the caging bolt and the clamp must both fail for the spring to be released from the can. New spring brake cans are always caged for this reason as seen in my first picture. That can came with 2 caging bolts, one caging the can and one in the holder. You are only caging the can for safety. You're not opening the can. Just so I'm clear...
Remove the small clamp and set the can to the side. Remove the diaphragm and push tube. All you'll have left is a metal stalk screwed into the brake spider. You don't need to remove it if you don't want to. Use a punch to knock the broken wrench out from the inside. Insert the correct fluted extractor into the fitting from the outside and drive it in until it's got a good bite.
Take a small torch and heat the fitting while turning the extractor. The heat will soften the sealant and should allow you to remove the fitting. Wait until everything has cooled then re-install the push tube, diaphragm and can. Remove the caging bolt and don't forget to put it back in its holder for later use.
OP has a single service brake chamber as used on front wheels. It has a small spring inside to make the brake pull back when it is released. The double service chambers from the rear wheels are more dangerous.
If the hardware on this chamber is this frozen, probably because someone either drove the vehicle in salt water or washed it with salt water, think about replacing the whole thing and possibly the air line that runs to it. Pic of brake chamber on M871 trailer washed in salt water attached. Shop replaced the whole thing.
If the hardware on this chamber is this frozen, probably because someone either drove the vehicle in salt water or washed it with salt water, think about replacing the whole thing and possibly the air line that runs to it. Pic of brake chamber on M871 trailer washed in salt water attached. Shop replaced the whole thing.
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Thank you very much!
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The picture is kind of deceiving, but if you look close it does appear to be a rear can.
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Ordered! Thank you!