Assistance: Deuce Brakes Locked, California - San Diego, Chino, Bishop area

[NVMessner]

Hello all. This is my first post unfortunately....I just purchased a 71 m35a2 from the classifieds on this site in San Diego CA. I only got about 15 to 20 miles before the brakes stuck. The truck felt a little low on power, but I've only drivin one other deuce and I have a loaded trailer. Either way it appears all the brakes on the truck are sticking. All the wheels were hot and I had some smoke. I was able to get it off the highway and into the back of a vons parking lot. I currently live in Bishop CA but am in town for training in Chino CA. Just curious if there was any body in the area that may be willing to help me out. I won't be able to get back down to it till tomorrow afternoon. I'd greatly appreciate any help.

 

[gimpyrobb]

You can get the brakes to release by opening a bleeder port.

Sounds like the compensation port might be clogged in the master cylinder. There is 2 holes, one large one small, make sure the small one isn't plugged. Once in a while air pressure can build up in the air pack, try opening the drivers side glad hand to see if theres pressure built up.

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

Prayers up for your situation and its resolution.

I edited the thread title to attract the appropriate attention.
(Will update from the "Mayday status" once you give us the "all clear")

Please keep us informed as this evolves.

John

PS:
Welcome to the SS website.

 

[NVMessner]

I appreciate it guys. I did notice the air prssure was staying at 120. I don't know the m35a2 that well, but I know our bucket trucks at work have the pressure relief and usually don't stay at the 120 max

 

[gringeltaube]

Up to 120 psi is normal. (Relief valve opens at 135 or so.)

Do what Gimpy suggested.

Possible causes: Eventually someone replaced the master cylinder and failed to readjust the push-rod length - now being too long.
Or there is enough dirt/rust that has collected between MC-piston and (stop)washer, preventing the piston from fully returning.
In any case that small bypass- or compensation -port may never open, which then causes the pressure to slowly build-up, with the symptoms as described.



G.

 

[bigmike]

Same thing happened to me when I was near 29 palms...AKA; middle of know where....Do as Gimpyrobb says and crack open ANY bleeder port. A bleeder port on a wheel cylinder is an easy one to reach without climbing under the truck. You'll get instant relief but then, you'll not have safe brakes. From there, using the brakes will build up pressure again and cause the same thing over again. Just keep bleeding as you limp home. You should be fine, just take your time and BE CAREFUL.

 

[Tow4]

+2 on checking the master cylinder push rod free play. If there is not enough clearance before the rod touches the master cylinder piston, it will cause to brakes to slowly apply going down the road. I don't remember the spec, but 1" of free play measured at the peddle is probably close.

 

[Tracer]

Gimpyrobb is spot on. Same thing happened to me when I picked up my M35 from Victorville. Follow the advice here, take it easy and be safe.

 

[DavidWymore]

I appreciate it guys. I did notice the air perssure was staying at 120. I don't know the m35a2 that well, but I know our bucket trucks at work have the pressure relief and usually don't stay at the 120 max

He is not referring to the truck system air pressure, although 120 might be a little high and exacerbating things.



He's referring to the airpack (air powered brake booster) possibly having failed (internal valving) and applying the brakes.

 

[Clay James]

I had this happen to both my trucks. It would be fine sitting there, but driving and using the brakes they would slowly build up pressure and start dragging. On one it was the air pack and the other water got in the master cylinder somehow and gummed up the differential port.

 

[dmetalmiki]

safety adition

Seems very unfortunate that happening to you on a new purchase. I would phone the previous owner and describe your problem. (if he had not already made a point of notifying you of a "problem"). But then That should have been sorted out before letting you drive (anywhere!) Home. As previously mentioned, Take some tools and adjust the master cylinder rod to have about 1 1/2 (that's one and a half) inches free motion before the rod hits the cup in the back of the master cylinder. When the pedal free play is correct and especially if was already correct, Loosen an easy to get to brake bleed nipple under a front mudguard, (fender). Back up the truck just a tad, then drive forwards and freewheel to check no drag. Good luck, post up when you arrive home safely.
DO NOT forget to tighten (NOT over tighten) the Brake Bleed Nipple. Before starting or and driving.

 

[swbradley1]

Do we have an update from the OP?

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

Do we have an update from the OP?

NVMessner
Sir, is your truck now safe and secure? You've gotten some great advise. Can we safely stand down from the MAYDAY status?
Thank you.
John

 

[NVMessner]

The truck is still in the parking lot. I made a trip down yesterday afternoon and ran a couple tests over the phone with a friend and it seems the airpack is shot and potentially the master cyclinder. I am supposed to be drivin back to bishop tonight, but may be stuck here. If anyone in the San Diego area has an airpack and master cylinder and some free time me and the wife would greatly appreciate it. I'm headed back down there now. Any parts or help will be compensated. Thanks

 

[DavidWymore]

Got him checking with Erik's and Those Military Guys

Might get him some mech help from SoCal Offraod Recovery (volunteer group)
Also going to post on San Diego Military Vehicle Collector's Club. I'm a couple hours away so hard to get over there and do much in person.

We could help by linking to approriate TMs and writeups if anyone has time. Busy at work and looking for mech assitance myself.

 

[98G]

Someone should take a 5ton (or larger) and just towbar him home.

It'll be a lot better working on his deuce in his driveway with infrastructure and support than working on it in a parking lot under stress.

A 5ton truck can easily towbar the deuce safely, without having the brakes interconnected. (My opinion, and my experience )

 

[DavidWymore]

That would be a big favor, that's several hours each way.

 

[NVMessner]

Update. So after contact with several helpful knowledgeable people I decided it best to not buy parts and try and figure this out 8 hours away from home. I bought this vehicle to work on and enjoy, but I can't justify buying a 500 air pack and hoping I did it right. So the nice guys at TMG are goin to tow Deuter the deuce back to Rancho Cucamonga for a very reasonable price...not 2k and help me out. The funny thing is..the wife and I will be living out of Deuter for the next several months...which would have been a perfect time for the air pack to lock. Once again I appreciate all the help and insight...look forward to meeting some of you.

 

[NVMessner]

An update...all my wheel deals were toast along with brakes. I also had about a quart of oil in my rear diff. All stuff I should have checked. Live and learn.

 

[marchplumber]

An update...all my wheel deals were toast along with brakes. I also had about a quart of oil in my rear diff. All stuff I should have checked. Live and learn.

We do that quite a bit around here! Signs of a "Good guy" to admit such things and go forward with a positive attitude! High Five to TMG!! Great ya could help out!! I keep thinking, it's the PEOPLE who make this site Great!