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Automatic transfer switch MEP-803a house backup

snider

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Marion Va
I recently purchased a MEP-803a with plans to use as whole house backup. Im not concerned with remote/auto start but if has a start trigger will be fine. I just want a 200 amp service rated switch that will switch between utility and generator with out outside control. I know it will need outside voltage to manage.

I ran across a good deal on a generac ATS but the switching is controlled by the controller in the generac generator and will take some modifications to make work.

Are there any good stand alone/self contained ATS that can be used?

Perhaps the Kohler RXT-JFNC200ASE
http://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-2...-RXT-JFNC200ASE/203269603#product_description

Thanks, Scott
 

adamaus2007

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Mobile, AL
Progress of my MEP whole house connection

Just went through a whole hose connection with my MEP-803A. Decided on this route due to the fact of having to manually start the 803A. Used a Square D 200 Amp panel with a manual transfer interlock kit similar to the link below.

http://www.interlockkit.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=K-5110

Want to say the new panel (Commercial Square D) with interlock kit was around $350. Another $25 for the county inspection fee (had to have them come out for both portions of the project).

The second cost was around $450 for the wire, armored conduit to the MEP, and a manual disconnect mounted on a 6X6 next to the MEP.

In hindsight, I placed the MEP on a concrete pad around 30 Ft away from my house (rented a Bobcat). I feel this was the best decision to get the fumes and noise just a little further away.

The summary of this experience was to stay away from the box places. I found most of my help and products at a local electrical supply house. The money saved allowed for the extra wire purchase.

IMG_6477.JPG Yes, it's time to stain the fence----Getting to that project as soon as it cools a little.
 

eatont9999

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Looks similar to the Eaton Cutter/Hammer ATS I bought. Check eBay and CL for used units. You want something with a 2 wire start signal if you ever plan to install a generator controller later.

If you have no plans for an auto start ability, you are better off getting a manual transfer switch and saving the money. The ATS is really only useful if you plan to auto start the generator.
 

snider

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Marion Va
After looking into the INOVA HIGHTECH MEP ATS controller I went ahead and got the service rated generac ATS. I got a really good deal on the switch and using the saving to offset the cost of the ATS controller. I want to make the switch transfer from utility to generator and back to utility as simple as possible form my family. I travel a lot and the less they have to do the better. Im not crazy about having the generator 100% automatic. I worry that something might go wrong while no one is home and cause a huge disaster. so im trying to make the ATS 100% automatic but the generator start still manual. that way when the utility power comes back on it will switch back automaticity taking the guesswork out. "is the power back on yet"

I will post updates on my progress.

any advice or input will be appreciated.
 

Triple Jim

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North Carolina
You might consider writing clear and simple step by step instructions on how to go to generator power during an outage. I did that a few years ago, and got my wife and kids to practice the procedure a couple times. They keep the instructions handy, and use them. I was out for an hour or two one time, and came home to hear my 003A running, and everything had been done correctly.
 

eatont9999

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Snider,

We have the same goal in mind. Fully automated starting, switch-over, switch-back and shutdown. I want to minimize the technical details for my wife and kid for when the power does go out. Hands-off is the best option in my opinion. I won't mind not having to walk out to the shop to start the generator and switch over power in the middle of a storm, either. It might be more palatable if the genset was near the house but as it is, I would have to walk 100 yards in mud to start it up. I'll post a video of my installation progress hopefully today.
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
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Howdy,

WOW.
I will be really impressed with what you end up with.

I am waiting to see what you will need to do to satisfy code, and inspection. 8)
 

snider

New member
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Location
Marion Va
eatont9999,

What is the Model # of your ATS? It may be several weeks before the electrician can get out to install my ATS. I will post updates as I make progress.

Have you noticed or tested if there is any engine performance loss with the exhaust pipe that long? I was debating on adding a pipe to mine. Depending on my gen placement. I'm still considering 2 locations.
 

eatont9999

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Why such a long exhaust run ? Looks like you could have turned it down towards the ground outside the building for a couple feet. Just curious. Good luck
I didn't want to be fumigated when the set is running. If it were close to the ground, it would be more apt to hover there and enter the shop or be blown towards the house. With the long run dumping the exhaust further up, the thought is that the wind will be stronger up there and carry the fumes away. The shop has gaps for ventilation where the roof meets the siding so hopefully extending the exhaust past that point will reduce the chance of it entering the shop.
 

eatont9999

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DFW, Texas
eatont9999,

What is the Model # of your ATS? It may be several weeks before the electrician can get out to install my ATS. I will post updates as I make progress.

Have you noticed or tested if there is any engine performance loss with the exhaust pipe that long? I was debating on adding a pipe to mine. Depending on my gen placement. I'm still considering 2 locations.
Here is part of the ebay listing with the model in it.

CUTLER-HAMMER TRANSFER SWITCH TYPE 3R EGS200SE 200AMP 208/240VOLT 2POLE 1PH 3W

Edit:

I have not tested performance with the exhaust attached. I really can't do that until I have the set wired in. I don't have a load tester. I don't see any reason it would make a difference, though. The pipe I added is larger than the stock exhaust on the MEP-803A. I used 1-3/4" exhaust pipe after the NPT fittings.
 
Last edited:

DieselAddict

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Efland, NC
I didn't want to be fumigated when the set is running. If it were close to the ground, it would be more apt to hover there and enter the shop or be blown towards the house. With the long run dumping the exhaust further up, the thought is that the wind will be stronger up there and carry the fumes away. The shop has gaps for ventilation where the roof meets the siding so hopefully extending the exhaust past that point will reduce the chance of it entering the shop.
You definitely want to insulate the exhaust line.
 

Guyfang

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Let me tell you a story about falling onto a hot flexible exhaust line.................................................. with no insulation.
 

Zed254

Well-known member
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S. Hampton Roads, VA
I'm thinking future maintenance: is your generator on wheels for moving away from that wall? I think I would have a problem squeezing in that space and opening the door. Several guys on the site have put their skid mounted units on casters for rolling around the garage.
 

eatont9999

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DFW, Texas
I'm thinking future maintenance: is your generator on wheels for moving away from that wall? I think I would have a problem squeezing in that space and opening the door. Several guys on the site have put their skid mounted units on casters for rolling around the garage.
I considered that and I positioned it so that the access to the filters, etc opens into the shop. For most maintenance on the other side, I can open the door and fit in there pretty well. I'm short and skinny, so that helps. If I need more access, I can remove the door. Maybe someday a forklift will wonder onto my property and make short work out of moving this kind of stuff.

I think I will wrap the indoor part of the exhaust for safety reasons. I'm good at getting burnt by stuff like that.
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
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Howdy,
A possible source of water back into your unit.

With a exhaust stack that long, you will have incredible amounts of condensation forming and rolling back down the pipe. It just will not get hot enough to evacuate all the water. You have no means of a water trap. You would be better off with a TEE right out side and a short pipe maybe 12" going down with a cap and screw hole to drain water from your stack. An example would be a air compressor line with a water collection drain.
 
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