Taz
New member
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- Laramie, WY
I just finished installing a Banks Turbo kit on my '85 M1008. There are some issues that pertain to CUCV's when compared to a civy install, I thought I would share.
I replaced the front battery and tray with civy units as the military stuff is too big and there would not be room for the airbox.
I relocated the CDR valve from the rh valve cover to above the rh alternator using civy parts, other wise I would have had to cut and splice hoses- yuk!
I added an electric lift pump to the rh frame rail, eliminated the mechanical. The mechanical sits under the turbo and would be a nightmare to replace when it fails. I doubt the heat would do it any good as well.
I removed the volt gage and installed the pyometer and cut a 2 inch hole for the boost gage. My generator lights work so I can live with out the volt gage. This makes it very clean.
The turbo down pipe needs some clearancing as it sat on the frame rail. I also added a three bolt flange downstream and welded up the slip fit as it is exactly where the clearance issue is. Can also unbolt the down pipe and remove if needed.
The kit is expensive, but honestly when I look at what I can do with it now, I can justify it. I would not be afraid to tow or haul anything reasonable with it, where as before I would have to use my '99 big block gasser. Time to sell it! My front door is at 7200 feet so the oil burner really was gutless. I do have a built 700r4 trans and buried the speedo for the first time ever on the test drive. Also, very little smoke. Quite a difference. Also gets quiter in the cab under boost!
The kit and instructions are well put together. There is good quality there, better than most of the stuff one buys these days. The exhaust is good but not great as the muffler hangs down lower than I like, but I am very picky about exhaust installs. LOL Gary
I replaced the front battery and tray with civy units as the military stuff is too big and there would not be room for the airbox.
I relocated the CDR valve from the rh valve cover to above the rh alternator using civy parts, other wise I would have had to cut and splice hoses- yuk!
I added an electric lift pump to the rh frame rail, eliminated the mechanical. The mechanical sits under the turbo and would be a nightmare to replace when it fails. I doubt the heat would do it any good as well.
I removed the volt gage and installed the pyometer and cut a 2 inch hole for the boost gage. My generator lights work so I can live with out the volt gage. This makes it very clean.
The turbo down pipe needs some clearancing as it sat on the frame rail. I also added a three bolt flange downstream and welded up the slip fit as it is exactly where the clearance issue is. Can also unbolt the down pipe and remove if needed.
The kit is expensive, but honestly when I look at what I can do with it now, I can justify it. I would not be afraid to tow or haul anything reasonable with it, where as before I would have to use my '99 big block gasser. Time to sell it! My front door is at 7200 feet so the oil burner really was gutless. I do have a built 700r4 trans and buried the speedo for the first time ever on the test drive. Also, very little smoke. Quite a difference. Also gets quiter in the cab under boost!
The kit and instructions are well put together. There is good quality there, better than most of the stuff one buys these days. The exhaust is good but not great as the muffler hangs down lower than I like, but I am very picky about exhaust installs. LOL Gary
. I think the banks kit is a better design.
