GTRealest911
New member
- 18
- 9
- 3
- Location
- NJ
Im a nubie to site and I'm looking at M1085 LWD bu it needs batteries, i have access yo Group 34 AGM but doesn't know if they will work. And help out there on this. Thanks all.
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
You can have 2 or 4 batteries in that truck. There are three pictures attached from three different trucks. Assorted sizes and shapes...Im a nubie to site and I'm looking at M1085 LWD bu it needs batteries, i have access yo Group 34 AGM but doesn't know if they will work. And help out there on this. Thanks all.
What was the reasoning behind deleting the primer?!?
The CAT engine already has a lift pump. Not understanding the point of installing an electric lift pump when the engine has a (very reliable) mechanical lift pump built in......
What do you mean when you say "RT wire 12v and LF wire is 3v"?? Are you trying to say right and left? Who's right - who's left?? Which alternator do you have? Are you talking about the voltage regulator connections or the alternator output lugs?
You're going to need to be much more specific - pictures might help us - take pics and mark them up with your phone's image editor?
If it ran before you touched it - it's very likely that whatever you touched has something to do with the problem.
If you have 3v at one terminal and 12v at the other AND it's the same story at the batteries then you have a connection problem at the batteries, bad/discharged batteries, etc. Fix your batteries and connections - even with the truck off you should have 12.6v and 25.2v at the batteries and about 0.5v less at the alternator terminals considering the voltage drop through the LBCD.
If you have 3v at one terminal and 12v at the other AND it's the same story at the batteries then you have a connection problem at the batteries, bad/discharged b
If you have 3v at one terminal and 12v at the other AND it's the same story at the batteries then you have a connection problem at the batteries, bad/discharged batteries, etc. Fix your batteries and connections - even with the truck off you should have 12.6v and 25.2v at the batteries and about 0.5v less at the alternator terminals considering the voltage drop through the LBCD.The FASS 165 with Preset 1-20 PSIYour description is all so confusing, no idea where to start. Photos of primer delete; which FASS pump did you install and why; photos of the alternator tag and which terminal is 12v and 3v; what did you notice above 14?
i'm not trying to confuse anyone in the forum,i know i threw a lot of info out on original post to ronmar.Both batteries voltage 12v when disconnected, i checked with FLUKE meter,when all wires are connected the side that's suppose to be 24v reading 3v.
I don' think i hooked battery cables up wrong, i only Have 2 battery setup also no NATO plug or cables. it's the way i purchase vehicle
Tomorrow i will recheck wires and take some photo. My apologies for the initial info dump on my initial post.Your description is all so confusing, no idea where to start. Photos of primer delete; which FASS pump did you install and why; photos of the alternator tag and which terminal is 12v and 3v; what did you notice above 14?
The oil pressure gauge and gauge sensor is not related to the start circuit in any way… the only thing they have in common is they both sample engine oil pressure…Battery was defective,i got issue corrected.
The start issue i found is related to the oil pressure,with the start switch off the ol pressure is 14PSI and when switched off it climbs to 40PSI similarly to a fuel gauge.
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!