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Best oil for the mule?

clinto

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I have been told and read in numerous places that filtered engines should take detergent oil and non filtered engines should take straight, non-detergent oil.

So I have been using 30W detergent Penzoil in mine, but that's just what my local supplier carries in 30W detergent oil. If Rotella (for spark combustion engines) was available, I'd buy that.

To be honest, as long as it is a brand name oil, it's probably good to go.

I do seem to remember mule guru ChuckW (Charlie) recommending a little marvel mystery oil to help with the ticking lifters mules are (in)famous for.
 

JDToumanian

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To be honest, as long as it is a brand name oil, it's probably good to go.
I agree, I think 30wt. Rotella is a good choice... But I'd stay away from multi-grade oils like 15w-40, I have read that air cooled engines with their higher oil temperatures will burn up the viscosity modifiers and result in breakdown of multi-grade oils.

Jon
 

clinto

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How much Marvel in the crankcase?
I'll look tonight and see where Chuck posted that. Either here on on G503. If i can't find it I will call him.

C
 

Charlie

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But I'd stay away from multi-grade oils like 15w-40, I have read that air cooled engines with their higher oil temperatures will burn up the viscosity modifiers and result in breakdown of multi-grade oils.

That is exactly right...use only 30 wt. in the AO-42, along with about 1/2 cup MMO.
 

Eric's hifim37

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I guess I'll have to change my Mule oil when I return from Tower Park, I used Valvoline 10-30 in my oil change, I'm glad now I bought some extra filters from Bill Watson. I can say though, my Mule runs very good a quiet (no lifter ticks)

Thanks for the good tip postings, I don't want to mess up a good thing due to ignorance, I'll post some Tower Park Show pictures of the Mule with it radios, bags & rocket launcher (inert) on it.

later, Eric..
 

doghead

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I just ran across this recommendation of using a cup of Marvel Mystery Oil.

I have been experiencing the dreaded lifter tick occasionally(on start up). I have noticed a quick rev will calm it down, but I don' like that idea.

I'm about to change my oil and filter and try the MMO added in.


Anyone else have any thoughts?
 

Wolf.Dose

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If a W30 oil is not awailable, a 15W40 should work fine, for its viscosity range is higher than 30. Air coold engines have hoter cylinder surfaces as water cooled engines, however, the engine oil in the oil pan is useually designed to be at the same range (80°C to 90°C). If the oil gets too hot, which is over 180°C, it starts to crack into its fragments. It does not matter, wether it is a W30 or a 15W40 oil. Both are based on mineral oil and therefore around this temperature start to crack.
I would not use a 10W40 or what so ever, for it is semi synthetic oil. Too thin for the seal design of that time. A 5W30 or 0W30 or something like that (full synthetic) is much thinner and will run through the seals like water.
Summery: For these engines in question a mineralic oil is ok. Multi grade was not available by the time of the design of the engines. However, the requirements of the engines to the oil grade were much lower than the quality of todays oils, for example SC or SD vers SF or higher of todays oils.
I own a vehicle which Diesel engine requires a CB engine oil grade. I can not by that anywere. CD or CE or CF is standard these days. Or to get back to that level, I may use my used oil in that engine and the grade is still to high for the requirements.
Hope this helps a little.
Wolf
 

jterry usaf

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I have been running Shaefer 15-40 synthetic in the Nevada Desert for 3 years w/o excess leakage, less heat and i think better milage. You have to be the judge. John
 

mikes47jeep

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i use 10w-30 it just about everything except diesels, there i use delvac, rotella, or the tractor supply fleet diesel oil

and ive never had a lube related issue

now i know its not a mule but i just use 10w-30 in my garden tractors that are air cooled, and never had an issue

i am a big fan of MMO, it quiets down alot of clicks and ticks and knocks

Mike
 

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135gmc

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Back when I had a mule, I'd add some Alemite CD-2 oil addative to free up the lifters, then run it for a few hours normally, then change the oil. I didn't add any CD-2 unless I started hearing valves again.
 
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