Blinker problems on m35a2

[markpeltier]

Greetings. It has been a while since I posted anything. All the responses have been great. I have a new issue that I cannot figure out. My passenger rear blinker is not working, nor is my driver front. Both bulbs are good, and the meter shows that there is flashing power, yet the blinkers do not work. All other lights, including drive lights are operable. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance. Mark P.

 

[Barrman]

I would go with the old stand by "CHECK YOU GROUNDS!" IF you are getting power to the light bucket and the bulb is good, ground is about the only thing left.

 

[markpeltier]

Ground is good

I checked ground, and it is good as well. Im stumped. Everything is clean, dry and in tip top shape. Running lights and blackout lights work fine. Any other ideas?

 

[Jones]

RE: Ground is good

I've had bulbs where the filaments looked great but were bad inside the brass base. Try swapping out bulbs with ones that you know work and see if that changes anything.

 

[m-35tom]

RE: Ground is good

use a test light, not a meter to be sure you have power. if you have power the only possible solution is a bad bulb or bad ground

 

[markpeltier]

RE: Ground is good

OK, we switched bulbs with the other lights. All the bulbs are good. The wierd thing is that both the front driver and rear passenger blinkers went out at the same time. We will try to ground with a new wire to see. Thnks for the help. I will post the results tomorrow.

 

[m-35tom]

RE: Ground is good

it sounds like you are saying that you have checked the wire to the light and it has power??

 

[WillWagner]

Re: RE: Ground is good

use a test light, not a meter to be sure you have power. if you have power the only possible solution is a bad bulb or bad ground

Tom, I disagree. A meter is the best way to go. The circuit needs to be checked. With a test light, you introduce a seperate, false ground. The meter will allow the tester to check the resistance of the circuits using the power and ground/return of the part being tested. 10 ohms resistance is the "norm" for max resistance in a circuit, but, from experience, anything more than 2 ohms will give you headaches. Check the resistance from the ground on the bulb socket to the ground wire at the harness connector. The free M105 had 24vdc at the sockets, but 28 ohms of resistance at the connectors from the harness to the lights in the ground wires....no ground. Unplugged and plugged them back in, and everything works great.

 

[m-35tom]

RE: Re: RE: Ground is good

will, we are just checking for voltage, not resistance. a meter will show voltage if the circuit has a resistance problem because it does not load the circuit the way a test light does. if the socket shows voltage with a test light, the bulb will have power. then if the bulb does not light you can test from the bulb base to a good ground and if it is a grounding problem the test light will light up.

 

[comdiver]

RE: Re: RE: Ground is good

When you tested for power, did you test right at the socket? You should try testing both + and - at the socket if you haven't. If you have power there you have either a socket that isn't making contact or a bad bulb. If you don't try moving your black meter clip (-) to a good ground. If you have power now you have a bad ground on the light. Just keep moving toward the battery. My next spot would be the rear harness connector. I hope this helps. I had a bad ground on my flasher causing my problems.

 

[m-35tom]

RE: Re: RE: Ground is good

something not mentioned is, do the 4 way flashers work and do all bulbs light then?? if they do this would indicate a bad turn switch.

 

[nattieleather]

RE: Re: RE: Ground is good

RTFM!

Almost all millitary manuals have a great testing and trouble shooting section. If you have volts at the bulb socket then I don't know what else to tell you.

 

[Manstein]

I'm having a similar problem. New switch, flasher, bulbs, cleaned grounds. Which manual covers the trouble shooting?