Brake fluid capacity??

[ivbeenrokd]

Anyone know how much fluid is needed to completely fill the system if its empty? As in nothing in the MC or any lines. I did a search and only found debate on the fluid types but not the capacity.

thanks,

John

 

[SCSG-G4]

Check the MWO for changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5, since all the '3' has to be replaced. Pretty sure it will be a quart or more.

 

[weld88]

I just did mine, refilled with dot 5, master cylinder was empty but lines were not. So being that you need to fill the entire system and bleed I would get 2 quarts. My master cylinder alone took just over a quart with the bleeding and all.

 

[ATPTac]

So I guess I didn't need to get 8 quarts... Oh well, better to have too much than not enough.

 

[Hainebd]

Do a flush that will eat 4 quarts. Be sure to let each wheel cylinder empty/bled fast a couple of times to get junk out. Keep bottles sealed till use. Have fun

 

[Flyingvan911]

Add a remote reservior. It's good for checking your brake fluid level and you can use some of the extra you bought.

 

[ivbeenrokd]

Thanks for the replies. I've currently got a remote reservoir I added 2 years ago and that is the number mod I would recommend to anyone. I'm doing a 4 door right now and I've ended up replacing all the soft lines as well as all the axle hard lines. I'm not 100% empty but from the airpack out im probably pretty close and I'm getting a yellow colored fluid out of the lines so I'm just going to bleed until I get the newer purple colored coming out just to be safe. I have a quart on hand but that stuff is $30 at napa so I figured if I'm going to need more than that than I might as well order a gallon from someone else.

Thanks,
John

 

[Dnaair]

I just did mine, refilled with dot 5, master cylinder was empty but lines were not. So being that you need to fill the entire system and bleed I would get 2 quarts. My master cylinder alone took just over a quart with the bleeding and all.

Hi can you advise me how to bleed each cylinder?

 

[SCSG-G4]

Get an assistant to pump the brakes, then go to the furthest rear brake cylinder, and with the assistant holding the brake pedal down after several pumps, open the relief valve just a little. When the stream is steady fluid, close it quickly. Repeat for each of the rear brake cylinders. Then go to the front and do the same. You will probably have to fill the MC several times unless you have a brake bleeding cup to catch the fluid at each cylinder. BUT FIRST, you need to make sure you bleed the MC and the brake booster (air pack) or you will just get air in the lines and have to start over again. Kenny (recovry4x4) built a brake bleeding tool out of a pump sprayer well over a decade ago that plumbs into the MC so you don't need an assistant. I followed his directions and built one also and donated it to the local MV club. They use if frequently.

 

[Dnaair]

Thanks You Boss and is bleeding the MC and airpack are the same process of each cylinder?

 

[G744]

Dot 5 looks yellow when bleeding lines.

It only seems to be purple in the jug.

Dot 3 looks clear.

 

[SCSG-G4]

Thanks You Boss and is bleeding the MC and airpack are the same process of each cylinder?

Bleed the MC by loosening the line at the air pack, and tighten again quickly once it has no bubbles. You will need to have air pressure or the pump sprayer contraption that Kenny described originally to bleed the air pack. Out of the air pack the line splits off to the front and the back at a tee on the frame. Start at the rearmost passsenger axle and work your way forward to the driver front.

 

[SCSG-G4]

And to make life simpler, see if you can find a Lisle Brake Bleeding Kit, part number 19200. it has a cup to catch the brake fluid in and a clear line to see if there are still bubbles. Less cleanup that way!