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Brake/Wheel Cylinders

tjcouch

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After a bunch of forum searching I think I have ascertained the following - please correct me if I am wrong.

Regarding a 1968 M35A2 (Kaiser Jeep)

1. You CAN run DOT 3 brake fluid, but the silicone DOT 5 is better. (I thought I read somewhere that DOT 3 will kill the seals in these things - but I found a bunch of posts that suggested that DOT 3 IS ok.)

2. A leaking wheel cylinder will result in a loss of brake pressure/stopping power.


Now - are the wheel cylinders widely available from a truck part store, or am I going to have to special order these things?

I am going to print up the TM to replace the cylinders, but I assume that it is basically similar to all other drum brake set-ups? I welcome any advice.
 

clinto

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DOT 3 will not hurt the system, but you should flush it completely to make sure no 5 is left. I consider 5 preferable.

#2- correct

Wheel cylinders are available new, on ebay and from surplus outfits. There are good American made ones and cheap Chinese (or offshore, not sure) ones. You don't want the cheap ones. Rebuild kits are available cheap from ted's trucks in Alabama. He is a member here, hopefully someone will chime in with his contact info.

Same as any other drum brake setup.
 

Recovry4x4

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Pick your fluid, both will work. There are arguments for both fluids so absorb what you can, toss a coin and bleed it out. Leaking wheel cylinders can cause a loss of brakes but not always. Brakes are not something to take lightly so fix them right. I'm not aware of any parts store sources for the cylinders so be prepared to buy them from a dealer. You can get rebuild kits from NAPA but they run around $12. I buy my kits from Ted Hils in AL. Last I bought a bunch they are $4 each. Speaking just for me, I prefer to rebuild my own cylinders so that I'm assured they are put together right. IIRC you can get offshore copies of the wheel cylinder for around $18 each. Give your steel lines and rubber hoses a really close inspection, both are subject to fail and should be replaced if there are any questions about their condition. Don't take any shortcuts with deuce brakes. When working properly they work pretty good, When they fail, they fail better than almost any vehicle.
 

Recovry4x4

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Very much so. Have a brake cylinder hone on hand. If you detect any pitting that you can't hone out then get a new cylinder. I'm so anal when it comes to these, I take all my new ones apart and go through them. I've found casting slag and funk in new ones before.
 

ajg6989

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I get all my parts from saturn surplus they have everything. I also check the copper washer found one bent before. if you can do all of them do them. I did one in the back and then the one next to it blew. fixed it then the one in the front blew. then the hose went. The only thing Ive found really strange is the drum is bolted to the hub. After working on macks that have the drum held on by the tires it is alittle different. Tthe socket for the hub nuts is 3" but is an 8 point not 6
 

bigmike

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If you can, do all the wheels and don't skimp. I bought new U.S. made and changed them all. I also did all the seals, bearings, cups etc. I found several questionable cups and bearings that's why I did them all. But if you're gonna go that far, just put in new.

My 2 cents.
 

jasonjc

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Kenny when you rebuild your cylinders to you lube the new parts with anything. I got a set of rebuilts off ebay and they had used some kind of lube silcone grese type stuff?? I'm getting ready to rebuild 8-10 and what to do it right the frist time. I don't like doing thing twice.
Thanks
 

Recovry4x4

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If you're going to use DOT-3 get a bottle of assembly lube. Kinda feels like DOT 5 BFS. If you're going to use BFS, use BFS as a lube, it works great. I'm not familiar of any greasy type product used for brake assy, I'd get rid of it.
 
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