Brand new 12v/24v alternators

[Azk30]

So I have recently got my m1008 up and running but not charging properly from either alt. I have verified that I’m getting 12v to the plug and my batteries are in good condition and my grounds are there and clean (verified by power probe). I’m not confident rebuilding them even though I’ve found rebuild kits on eBay for about 100 bucks to do both alts. I did find through bd electrical brand new units with isolated grounds for about 150 each (I called the tech rep and asked about the ground before ordering). So my question just to verify my suspicions, do I verify they are indeed isolated by testing for resistance from the ground terminal to the case and I should no continuity? Thanks for any help I have attached some pictures for your viewing pleasure

 

[flyfishtrailer]

Just so you know, the pulley size is smaller so when you install you will need shorter belts, or transfer the CUCV pulleys to the new alternators. Ask me how I know.

 

[WWRD99]

So I have recently got my m1008 up and running but not charging properly from either alt. I have verified that I’m getting 12v to the plug and my batteries are in good condition and my grounds are there and clean (verified by power probe). I’m not confident rebuilding them even though I’ve found rebuild kits on eBay for about 100 bucks to do both alts. I did find through bd electrical brand new units with isolated grounds for about 150 each (I called the tech rep and asked about the ground before ordering). So my question just to verify my suspicions, do I verify they are indeed isolated by testing for resistance from the ground terminal to the case and I should no continuity? Thanks for any help I have attached some pictures for your viewing pleasure

That does look like the correct isolated ground style you need. Yes if you test the ground it shouldn't be there on the case as well. One thing I would suggest, if you haven't already, is hit the tech sticky on how to diag these alternators....there is a great one in there that will walk you through what everything should be and how it works. Make sure both gen lights on the dash come on with the key on position. I would do a pull test on all the connections since they can fall apart inside and cause problems. I used belts from Dayco, number 15485, 15570 and 15455 with the stock pulleys. The gen 1 is tight but will roll on ad give you tons of adjustment. I do see new batteries but what size are they? Could be the picture but they look like a honda fit battery, kinda small...these need group 31s or they get angry and make things not work...or the military replacement 6tm. Truck looks great! Oh and keep the old alternators and rebuild one for fun just so you can see how they go together and to have a spare!

 

[Azk30]

I’ll install the new alternators when they arrive and figure out belt sizes and report back with a solid fix so others can follow. Also I’ve done a couple upgrades I’ll share
1986 CUCV m1008
4” ord custom lift (1.5 fwd offset on front springs)
Ord cross over
Red head steering box w/extra ports (4 turn highly recommended)
Ord steering brace
Ord 1.5 tierod
Ord 1.5 steering damper clamp
Ord hd shackles front and rear
Raceline beadlocks 17x9
Maxxis rzr mts 37x12.5r17 (best bang for buck and reasonably quiet)
I did trim the front fender to clear the tires (maybe 2” of removed metal done with grinder and hand file)
12v gp conversion
Gp controller from hillbilly wizard
Hd headlight harness from lmc
Amazon h4 headlight housings w/led’s
A host of rockauto parts
Rebuilt radiator (new ones are impossible to find) check your local yard for a diesel truck of the same year they have the ports and measurements are correct. I had mine rebuilt with a bigger core and I run In Arizona 173 at the thermostat and 135 ish on the bottom after driving so a 40 degree split give or take.

 

[Azk30]

That does look like the correct isolated ground style you need. Yes if you test the ground it shouldn't be there on the case as well. One thing I would suggest, if you haven't already, is hit the tech sticky on how to diag these alternators....there is a great one in there that will walk you through what everything should be and how it works. Make sure both gen lights on the dash come on with the key on position. I would do a pull test on all the connections since they can fall apart inside and cause problems. I used belts from Dayco, number 15485, 15570 and 15455 with the stock pulleys. The gen 1 is tight but will roll on ad give you tons of adjustment. I do see new batteries but what size are they? Could be the picture but they look like a honda fit battery, kinda small...these need group 31s or they get angry and make things not work...or the military replacement 6tm. Truck looks great! Oh and keep the old alternators and rebuild one for fun just so you can see how they go together and to have a spare!

I have verified all the warning light illuminate when key is the on position

 

[Guyfang]

Please write the State you live in, in the location block, IAW forum rules. Thanks.